Katia Jundi Interviews Gregory Bruttin, Product Strategy Director at Roger Dubuis, during his visit to the region to launch a very special timepiece only available in the Dubai Mall boutique.
Gregory Bruttin has consistently pushed the limits of watchmaking. With graduate degrees in microtechnology and watchmaking microelectronics, a Master in Watchmaking Design from the University of Neuchatel, and a career spanning nearly two decades in various capacities at Roger Dubuis, he has contributed to the development and marketing of twenty movements and fifteen patents.
[KJ] Hi Gregory, lovely to see you and thanks for taking the time to share this exciting news with us. Can you tell us more about it?
[G] Thank you, Katia. We’re very happy to share with you the new Platinum Edition timepiece as part of our iconic Excalibur Monobalancier series, exclusively for the Middle East. Our new timepiece comes in a unique stimulating vivid mint green colour that is associated with platinum material and showcases our daring and extreme craftmanship.
In the fact with color was created with Arsenic originally but as it was dangerous we had research other ways to find the right color so we found another way to create the color without arsenic.
[KJ] So this is not going to kill you (laughing)?
[GB] No (laughing). This is the provocative side of Roger Dubuis, we like to present ourselves with this kind of story. Actually the color was very interesting because its something never seen before in the watch making industry. It’s a green yes, but a very specific green.
[KJ] Why this color green? What made you gravitate towards this shade? I have not seen this shade of green on any timepiece so far.
[GB] The choice of green was important for us because platinum is a quiet matter, high end material, so it was necessary to have the color match the metal so it won’t be too flashy.
We also like to be unique in how we create our timepieces, so this was another reason why we wanted a unique shade. The main challenge was to match the color with the other elements of the watch, not only the dial.
[KJ] Was this the most challenging aspect of producing the watch? To match the perfect green on all the components?
[GB] Exactly.
[KJ] I just found out that this is a Dubai Exclusive, not just a regional exclusive. Why Dubai? And is this the first time that Roger Dubuis does something like this for the Middle East?
[GB] This is a boutique exclusive, our biggest boutique is in Dubai and that’s why really it’s a Dubai exclusive per say. This market is very important for us, we want to develop our platinum offering and this metal is popular in the region. This why we are focusing here for this specific launch.
[KJ] In a way you are showcasing a commitment to the Middle East collectors by bringing something unique only for them, what do you think?
[GB] Yes, we feel its a market that appreciates this type of timepiece so hence why are launching it here.
Also if you notice there is a small diamond which is specific to the platinum watches, this is a signature touch that we like to include and keeps our signature element surprise going.
[KJ] Wow, that so beautiful actually. How many pieces do you have available?
[GB] This is not a limited edition, however we have capped the production at maximum 10 pieces per year. This is how we can maintain the quality, producing slowly and taking the time that each piece needs and deserves.
[KJ] Do you think you will be focusing more on platinum in the future? Is this a direction that you’re going for as a brand?
[GB] We love using platinum but in the bigger pieces the case becomes very heavy and it’s not comfortable on the wrist honestly. On the 42 mm diameter it’s ok, not too heavy and some clients appreciate the feeling of a solid case.
[KJ] I love how you are pushing boundaries with the color and you always keep that element of surprise. This is something your clients have come to expect from you and you always deliver on that, even with this new launch.
Which watch are you wearing today? Is this your go-to watch?
[GB] This is the same timepiece {Excalibur Monoblancier} but in ceramic. To be honest with you, I don’t wear watches! I never wear a watch. This helps me to stay creative and make space for inspiration for new timepieces to come in the future – to keep pushing the boundaries.
[KJ] That’s so interesting! And a good reason not to wear one. Does this watch cater to both men and women?
[GB] Anyone can wear our timepieces! We don’t limit ourselves to gender, we use this 42 mm case for this reason. It’s comfortable for both. We do have 36 mm available in other models.
[KJ] I’ve heard that you’re fascinated the most by the tourbillon complication, can you tell us more why this is?
[GB] It’s gravity. Gravity is the quest for a watch maker. Compilations are a mix of gears and elements -this is a physical approach, as well as philosophical, and the most well known solution to offset this is the tourbillion but it may not be the best one. The solution came about two centuries ago and today we have a different approach to compensate gravity. For example, the tourbillion only compensates gravity in vertical position and in fact today the tourbillion is a statue complication, an incredible mechanism. We are still searching for better solutions to offset the effect of gravity to keep on improving, it’s an obsession that we have as do many watchmakers. It’s the most challenging thing for us.
[KJ] This seems to be the biggest quest in watchmaking for sure. I heard that you love traveling, adventure – you seem to be very active! Does this active lifestyle give you inspiration or motivation towards your work and your watchmaking journey?
[GB] Yes and also I’m producing my own wine this year as well. (laughing). For sure yes, the traveling is very important for me to meet people, to study culture – this helps in my creativity. I love the philosophical aspect of exploration, stepping into a different kind of mind set and approach to life. And the best part is the food! For example in Japan, the complexity and detail in the cuisine gives you insight into the rich culture they have.
[KJ] Did you use your previous experience traveling to this part of the world to inspire you to create this new timepiece you’ve launched?
[GB] The process is creative and can be hard to structure. At Roger Dubuis, we take on lots of feedback and information after which we can crystalize that into a product. Our process can be very different than other brands. Everyone from the team will share their ideas and input to finalize the prototype into the final product – what you see in store today.
[KJ] You’ve been in Roger Dubuis for 20 year now, do you see this as a positive point? Or had you moved around could this have provide a more well rounded outlook on the industry?
[GB] I will share with you what my colleagues say, “you live the brand.” So I feel and live the brand completely, it’s a natural process for me. My job is to continue the vision and story of Roger Dubuis himself, I worked a lot with him and he gave me plenty of advice in terms of philosophy and vision. My plan is to continue on that path.
My favorite quote from Roger Dubuis is, “Continue to be creative but respect the traditions.” I have a lot of creative people around me, I take the creativity but I manage to respect the tradition.
[KJ] What’s coming up in the pipeline? What can you share?
[GB] I love to share, but I change my mind all the time. (laughing) It was important for us to ‘clean the room’. For the past 10 years we tried lots of things, some elements were successful and some not as much so it was important for us to ‘clean the room’ and clarify the vision of the brand.
For this timepiece, we have very clear assortment, the base in terms of product, it’s in line with the DNA of the brand, it’s technical, it’s design, it’s high watch making, and it’s very current.
Now, that will be important for us to come back into the roots of the brand. The company was created around four big complications- tourbillion, perpetual calendar, split second, and the minute repeater. This is the way we want to move forward for the future, to come back to the creativity and reinterpret the traditional compilations but in modern way. That is the vision of the brand, to come back with very strong movement, surprising movement. We’ve been playing around with the design of the material during the last few years and now we will play with movement to come back with crazy complications.
[KJ] Gregory thanks so much for your time, this was brilliant. Congratulation on your new launch and I’m sure it will be a huge success.
