Inspired by Watches & Wonders 2023, a few months ago I wrote about three Timeless Horological Designs: The Cartier Santos, Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. In this edition of Timeless Horological Designs, I present three more timepieces – one of that goes back decades and is among the most iconic in horology. The other two are relatively recent, and yet the strength of their design and timelessness has left a significant mark on horology.
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1
“The LANGE 1 is the epitome of an A. Lange & Sohne watch. It embodies the knowledge and skills of an entire watchmaking dynasty that was established in Dresden in the early 19th century.”
The Lange 1 was among the original four models, launched on October 25, 1994, in Dresden, Germany, to mark the rebirth of A. Lange & Sohne (Lange). Lange is the legendary East-German watchmaker, located in Glasshutte, in Saxony, Germany. The Saxonia, Tourbillon “Pour le Merite” and Arkade ladies’ timepiece were the other three models. The rebirth of Lange with the launch of these four spectacular models gave the Swiss a lot to worry about. Now they had a genuine competitor in Germany. Haute-Horology was not solely the realm of the Swiss anymore.
The Lange 1 became an instant sensation. Its asymmetrical dial-layout placed the time sub-dial centre left, outsize-date window top right and seconds sub-dial bottom right, with power-reserve indicator far right. It was designed according to the proportions of the Golden Ratio, expressed as 1 / 1.6181, discovered by ancient Greek mathematicians, and responsible for notable works of art and architecture. The outsize date, a reference to the Five-Minute Clock at the Semper Opera House in Dresden, became an iconic feature. The Lange 1 became the ‘face’ of the new Lange.
Over the years, Lange broadened the Lange 1 collection. The Lange 1 design became ideal for introducing complications and grand complications. Lange launched models such as the Moonphase, Time Zone, Tourbillon, and Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. They added additional case sizes and experimented with different dial-finishes, such as Lumen and Guilloche, to further enhance the range. Those desiring a larger case diameter could opt for the Grand Lange 1 or Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, and ladies desiring a guilloche dial could choose from the Little Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 Moon Phase pieces. There have been limited editions over the years, such as the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst.
With few exceptions, the Lange 1 range is powered mostly by their in-house manual-winding calibres. Typical of Lange, each timepiece has a unique calibre, notable for Lange’s exemplary finishing and the signature hand-engraved balance cock. Some models have been discontinued, such as the Lange 1 Daymatic, while others have been upgraded to second-generation models, such as the Lange 1, Lange 1 Moonphase, Grand Lange 1 and Lange 1 Time Zone. The current range includes about nine models, crafted in precious metals. Lange continues to find ways to enhance and surprise with the Lange 1 collection.
Whether a collector chooses the basic Lange 1 or the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, they are acquiring one of the most Iconic timepiece-designs of all time, powered by calibres that are among the finest in horology. A timepiece family that is legendary, prestigious, and timeless, the Lange 1 line is one that will stand the test of time decades later.
Rolex Datejust
“This is the pinnacle of watchmaking science. It encapsulates every discovery made to date.” – Hans Wilsdorf, 1945.
The Rolex Datejust was launched in 1945. It holds the distinction of being the first automatic or self-winding wristwatch, while also being waterproof, a chronometer, and displaying the date at 3’o clock on the dial. In 1953, Rolex enhanced the design by introducing the Cyclops lens, thereby magnifying the date display. (Over the decades, the patented Cyclops lens has become one of the most iconic Rolex features, visible on most Rolex watches which have a date.)
Over time, Rolex gradually broadened and enhanced the Datejust family to suit different tastes and preferences, for both male and female clients. These include different case sizes, case metals, dial materials and designs, bejewelled pieces, to name a few. Proprietary Rolex innovations such as Rolesor (combination of gold with stainless steel), Everose Gold, Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, Paramagnetic Blue Parachrom hairspring, are found across the range.
The current range is spread out across a multitude of combinations:
Case Sizes: 31mm, 36mm, 41mm.
Materials: Oystersteel, White Rolesor, Yellow Rolesor, Everose Rolesor, Yellow Gold, White Gold, Everose Gold.
Bezel: Smooth, Fluted, Domed, Domed-Diamond Set, Diamond Set.
Bracelet: Oyster, Jubilee, President.
Dials: Numerous options ranging from assorted colours and patterns, set with diamonds, mother-of-pearl set with diamonds, to name a few.
Movements:
The 31mm range is powered by in-house self-winding calibre 2236, which features the Syloxi hairspring in silicon with patented geometry and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
The 36mm and 41mm range are powered by in-house self-winding calibre 3235, which features the Chronergy escapement, Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. Fourteen patents have been filed for calibre 3235.
Both calibres are certified by the COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres).
The Datejust, a simple time-only with date timepiece, benefits from the best of Rolex R&D and innovation at any given point in time, such as materials, case sizes, bracelets, dials (including colours, patterns and fonts), precious stones and movement innovations. Everything about a Rolex timepiece is brilliantly thought through. The Datejust is an accurate, legible, practical, versatile timepiece, which lends itself to both active and formal lifestyles. There is a Datejust for almost every aesthetic preference and budget. The Rolex configurator on their website allows one to explore the multitude of options.
Perfect as a graduation present, for instance, it also makes a superb addition for the mature seasoned collector. One of Rolex’s strongest hallmarks is its low-cost of ownership; the timepiece will not require servicing for a long time. A Datejust can hold its own in a sea of grand-complications crafted by haute-horology brands. If one desires only one timepiece for the rest of their life, the Datejust makes an incredibly compelling case for itself.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle
“The Traditionnelle collection is the supreme expression of the most demanding Geneva Haute Horlogerie traditions inherited from the 18th century.”
Founded in Geneva, Switzerland in 1755, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has created some of the most beautiful and complicated timepieces in history. The Traditionnelle family was launched in 2007 as part of the Patrimony family and named ‘Patrimony Traditionnelle’. The design of the Traditionnelle was complimentary to the minimalistic and delicate design of Patrimony. A few of the design hallmarks include a railroad-style minutes track surrounding the dial, dauphine hands (polished on one side), and baton-style hour markers.
The current Traditionnelle family includes about twenty-six models, crafted in precious metals, to suit different tastes and preferences. Except for one Quartz calibre, which powers a small model within what VC designates as its collection for ladies/female clients, most others have a range of VC’s in-house manual-winding and automatic calibres, impeccably finished, and adorned by the Hallmark of Geneva.
Its aesthetic allows VC to introduce a broad repertoire of timepieces, ranging from classical dress timepieces, jewellery timepieces, complications and grand complications. Its design codes also allow VC to experiment a great deal – from creating classical designs adorned with VC’s legendary ‘traditional’ open-working to more ‘futuristic’ and ‘edgy’ open-face treatments. During 2013-2014, VC separated the Traditionnelle family from the Patrimony, finally giving it its own space and identity.
Some of these models include:
Traditionnelle Moonphase
a gorgeous ladies’ timepiece, 36mm case diameter, adorned with diamonds on the bezel and lugs, mother-of-pearl dial, displaying hours, minutes, moon phase, power-reserve and centre-seconds. The same model is available with a diamond-studded dial, albeit slightly larger at 37.5mm case diameter.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
a simple timepiece, 38mm case diameter, displaying the hours, minutes, and centre seconds, and now a modern-day icon.
Traditionnelle Complete Calendar
a traditional calendar timepiece (not annual or perpetual), 41mm case diameter, displaying hours, minutes, moon phase, date (via pointer around the dial), and day of the week and month in individual apertures. This classical model is also available as an open face version named Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
a grand complication, 41mm case diameter, displaying the hours and minutes, tourbillon, and retrograde date function, with openface treatment. It is inevitable VC will introduce this in its classical dial avatar soon.
The Traditionnelle canvas allows VC to introduce breakthrough horological innovations, such as the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar. This masterpiece is a 42mm case size grand complication that allows the wearer to switch from 5 Hz (Active mode) to 1.2 Hz (Standby mode), when not wearing the timepiece. This enables the power-reserve to be extended, so one does not have to reset the perpetual calendar when the timepiece has been off the wrist for a number of days.
Since its launch in 2007, the Traditionnelle family has become among the most gorgeous and versatile timepiece families in the world. Whether one chooses a simple time-only piece, an open-face complication or a grand-complication, there is a Traditionnelle for most tastes, preferences, and various budgets. Perfect for the collector who desires his or her first haute-horology timepiece from the Holy Trinity, the Traditionnelle is just as well suited for the seasoned collector who desires a grand complication. The Traditionnelle family is timeless and represents the best of haute horology.
