In the realm of watchmaking, a rich tapestry of tradition and innovation unfolds as artisans and engineers tirelessly work to push the boundaries of what’s possible. The world of horology has always been a harmonious blend of history and technology, but in recent years, a remarkable wave of innovation has swept through the industry, promising to redefine the future of timekeeping. From groundbreaking materials to cutting-edge complications, these innovations are not just pushing the boundaries but shattering them, setting the stage for a future where precision, beauty, and technology converge like never before.
MB&F HM Bulldog
A rounded, compact body of titanium, red gold or microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating coupled with a generous ration of sapphire crystal. Two prominent aluminium time-display “eyes”, rolling at anyone who dares look its way. A collar studded with projections that allow you to wind the mainspring or set the time. Stout but flexible “legs” that wrap firmly around your wrist. A massive jaw. And above all, a big heart beating steadily at 2.5Hz (18,000bph).
The manual-winding engine of HM10 Bulldog was designed and developed in-house, leveraging the best of MB&F’s technical expertise built up over the years; longtime members of the MB&F Tribe will recognise elements that hew closely to the horological lab’s best-loved creations. The large suspended balance that hovers just beneath the central dome of sapphire crystal was made possible by the various iterations of this mechanism in the Legacy Machine collection.
Despite its outsize personality — measuring 45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and with a maximum height of 24mm — HM10 Bulldog is surprisingly wearable. Its sprung strap attachment “legs” allow the body to fit closely around the wrist, with the calf-leather strap as robust as any well-made leash — fastened with either a folding buckle or Velcro system. HM10 Bulldog is assembled with highly distilled expertise in micro-mechanical engineering. Fitting the requisite elements of timekeeping and time display within such a limited three-dimensional volume, while maintaining top levels of artistry and finish, requires careful balance between technical and aesthetic factors.
MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in five versions:
- Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes
- RT version: 18K red gold and titanium case with black hour and minute domes
- ‘Dark Bulldog’ versions: case in microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating with black, blue or red hour and minute domes. Limited editions of 8 pieces each.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier
As an innovator who ignites new pathways of expression and craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis has unleashed the full potential of colourful luminescence with the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier- limited to only 28 pieces. The Blacklight collection has already cemented an iconic reputation for its mastery of radiant aesthetics and excelled performance. Powered by the RD720SQ calibre, and glowing with artistic originality, this is a watch that demands attention.
Setting this watch apart with true innovation are the powerfully visible spinels that encircle the bezel and flange and take the name of Spin-StonesTM. This world premiere stone-cut is patent pending, and yet again demonstrates the Maison’s ability to exploit aesthetic design in its most spectacular form.
Balancing aesthetics and performance, the automatic RD720SQ calibre has an increased power reserve of 72 hours and an optimized micro-rotor to minimize the vibrations. To further improve stability, the balance wheel inertia has been doubled – making the watch less sensitive to shocks. In a quest for greater efficiency and energy transmission, even the shape of the escapement has been enhanced, paired with diamond-coated silicon pallet-stones and a new lube. This display of Roger Dubuis’ obsessive engineering is brought together with hand-finished quality and meticulous care – all resulting in the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures of fine watchmaking.
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic – Neon Yellow Saxem
The yellow is a powerful, bright neon colour which almost seems to glow from the inside, like a fluorescent material. An intense fluorescent shade of acid yellow, citrus-like in its quality. To meet this highly technical challenge, Hublot had to search for a solution in space technology. In fact, SAXEM was developed in the field of satellite technology. A unique material that had also been used in 2019 for the Big Bang MP-11.
What is SAXEM? It stands for “Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral”. It is an alloy of aluminium oxide, the basic component of sapphire, with rare earth elements like thulium and holmium as well as chromium. The resulting material is ultra-resistant and endowed with a brilliance that is greater than that of sapphire.
In terms of movement, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is powered by the HUB6035 self-winding Manufacture calibre. Hublot has chosen the most difficult technical route, self- winding using a micro-rotor, the only way to avoid concealing the back of the movement as a conventional rotor would have done. On top of that, the Manufacture has chosen to skeletonise the entire calibre. This heart is the tourbillon, which appears to be suspended in mid-air. Positioned at 6 o’clock, it offers the technical and hypnotic spectacle of a high-precision Haute Horlogerie piece, designed as a 21st century interpretation: modern, disruptive, dazzling.
The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is limited to 50 pieces.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
Piaget is keeping the flame of ultra-thin watchmaking very much alive. More than just a speciality, it is a state of mind, a culture, an identity that began with watch movements and has spread to all of Piaget’s designs over almost 150 years. For Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023, the Maison, which laid the aesthetic and technical foundations for ultra-thin watches, launched new version of a mechanical watch that is an astonishing 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept.
An exceptional feat, even at 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept is waterproof to a depth of 20 metres and equipped with a traditional crown. Its first working prototype took seven years to develop; two more were required for it to meet Piaget’s rigorous reliability standards. Its case is made from a special torsion-resistant cobalt alloy, which makes it 25% thinner than precious metal cases.
