Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is delighted to showcase the Global Highlights Tour of The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX at MB&F M.A.D Gallery in Dubai Mall from the 18th to the 20th of April, 2024.

MB&F sharing a similar appreciation for high quality and design to Phillips is proud to host, the Global Highlights Tour, a prelude to the Geneva Watch Auction: XIX, which will take place on 11 and 12 May 2024 in Geneva, and will share Italian watch collector and publisher Guido Mondani’s private collection including over 40 consigned wristwatches.

As a leading global platform for buying and selling 20th and 21st century works, Phillips offers dedicated expertise in the areas of Modern and Contemporary Art, Design, Photographs, Editions, Watches, and Jewels.

Among the notable hero pieces are the Two-Crown Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 2523/1, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ‘John Player Special’ Ref. 6241, and a Rolex Ref. 6102 featuring a ‘Caravel’ Cloisonné Enamel Dial. Also of significance is a potentially one-of-a-kind Stainless-Steel A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 boasting a Blue Dial, along with the inaugural appearance at auction of the Platinum Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain.

Visit Dubai’s MB&F M.A.D Gallery from 18th to 20th of April for an unforgettable journey through time.

Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year showcased an extraordinary array of novelties that left enthusiasts and connoisseurs in awe. From groundbreaking complications to exquisite design innovations, the event featured the best of the best from leading watchmakers around the world. From intricate tourbillons to elegant dress watches, each creation epitomized the pinnacle of craftsmanship and innovation in the horological world. Here is a round up of some timepieces that stood out from the crowd.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC sets a new bar in high-end mechanical watchmaking. Never before has a mechanical watch resistant to shocks and magnetic been made so slim – even thinner than a coin. An achievement that exemplifies Bvlgari’s daring streak and relentless drive to keep pushing boundaries, the benchmark now stands at 1.70 millimeters.

Consider the significance of a 1.70 mm thickness – a ninth world record that introduces a novel standard in watchmaking. This new Octo Finissimo Ultra is not only the thinnest mechanical watch ever produced: it is also the world’s thinnest COSC chronometer. This milestone reflects a rigorous process, underscored by a commitment to reevaluate, and transcend the conventions of traditional high watchmaking, propelling venerable craftsmanship into a contemporary context. As a hallmark of its era, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (104081), a new milestone in the history of watchmaking, is being introduced in limited series of 20 pieces.

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Choronograph

This new Cartier Privé launch is an opportunity to discover a new complication making its debut in the collection: the single-button chronograph and its Manufacture 1928 MC calibre. First introduced on a Tortue watch in 1928, this complication was notably reinterpreted in 1998 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris with the sophisticated details we see today: blued-steel apple-shaped hands, a hollowed-out central seconds hand and triangular motifs on the four corners of the dial.

To enhance the legibility of the dial and make chronographic precision even more accessible,the rail-track has been placed on the outside of the Roman numerals. Free of any additional detail, the entire dial space is devoted to the two counters. Start, stop and reset: the three functions are concentrated in a single push-button integrated into the crown and is activated in a single motion. The movement is 4.3 mm thick, making it the Maison’s thinnest chronograph.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit

With the Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit, the collection welcomes a new model combining the Maison’s watchmaking and jewellery expertise, and whose exceptional refinement has been saluted by the Poinçon de Genève. The 41 mm-diameter case, as well as the entire dial, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet in ethical 18-carat white gold, are set with meticulously cut diamonds. This represented a significant challenge, taking the collection to a new jewellery peak and evoking the celestial beauty of stars reflected on glaciers. Making no compromises in terms of technical expertise, this true collector’s timepiece benefits from the watchmaking savoir-faire of Chopard Manufacture embodied in the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.41-L movement, with automatic winding via a micro-rotor ensuring a 65-hour power reserve.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Drawing on the extensive calendar expertise it has acquired since introducing the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC now pushes the boundaries once again with its first secular perpetual calendar. In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules.

A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100. Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double MoonTM phase display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case and a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

Jacob & Co Astronomia Régulateur

Jacob & Co.’s latest release introduces a groundbreaking interpretation of the régulateur watch, featuring a distinctive 3D floating movement housed with a 43mm rose gold case. With separate displays for hours, minutes, and seconds, the timepiece is powered by the innovative caliber JCAM56 and boasts a remarkable 552 components. The vertical movement completes a full rotation every minute, a first in high caliber watchmaking, with the seconds dial spinning counterclockwise alongside a flying tourbillon rotating on two axes. The watch, encased in sapphire, offers a clear view of the translucent blue sub-dials, epitomizing high precision watchmaking while revolutionizing the régulateur display.

The Astronomia Régulateur’s separate display arms spin in sync with the movement’s rotation while a patented constant force device ensures steady energy flow to the intricate movement, enhancing accuracy and performance.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

Pushing the boundaries of inventiveness further than ever, the new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. Beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication. Incorporating almost eight decades of accumulated expertise in the tourbillon regulating mechanism, the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, features a newly developed tourbillon configuration that rotates on three axes. In doing so, it creates a completely new kinematic effect for Jaeger-LeCoultre resembling a spinning top.

Fitted with a cylindrical hairspring, the Heliotourbillon takes this thinking further, with a newly developed construction comprising three titanium cages rotating on three axes. The first cage is set at a 90-degree angle to the balance wheel and rotates perpendicular to it. The second cage is set at 90 degrees to the first (thus, on the same plane as the balance wheel). Together, these two cages are constrained by an axis tilted at 40 degrees and make a full rotation in 30 seconds. The third cage is perpendicular to the second and makes a full rotation in 60 seconds.  Supported on ceramic ball bearings to minimise friction, the tourbillon consists of 163 components and weighs less than 0.7 grams.

Montblanc Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

Montblanc returns with a new 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, showcasing more fascinating details to be discovered. This new limited edition sees the addition of five apertures into the case band, allowing light to flood into the hand-finished manually wound movement. Montblanc’s designers have taken a truly architectural approach to the entire timepiece in order to create a play of light and depth flowing through the movement constructed on pillars, so that the wearer can fully admire the 291 components via five different crystal windows. For the delight of those peering into the depths of the movement, this latest limited edition comes with a new movement, the Calibre MB M17.26.

This new limited edition comes in a 43mm stainless steel case with an elegant horizontal satin finishing. It is fitted with a white gold fluted bezel that has been inspired by Minerva’s first fluted bezel dating back to 1927, adding a touch of finesse to the model. Adding another modern twist to the timepiece, the German silver plates and bridges have been colored in a contemporary blue, providing a contrast with the rest of the movement, yet matching the tone of the blue sfumato calf leather strap.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric

Parmigiani Fleurier not only redefines the time-measuring tool but invites it to dance, free of all constraints. This Toric is not a rebellion, but a gentle revolution, a vital force pushing performance and aesthetics into an unexplored realm of serenity. Refined in its design, it transcends established watchmaking norms, flirting with the boundaries of the possible to outline the contours of an ever-evolving luxury.

With the Toric, Parmigiani Fleurier embraces the colors of the earth and nature, directly drawn from the chromatic universe of Le Corbusier, master of purism. In this collection, Parmigiani Fleurier has orchestrated a dazzlingly unique color palette, playing harmonies with unparalleled finesse. Crafted in rose gold, the movement of the Toric Petite Seconde is entirely new and barely noticeable at first glance. Three large surfaces in 18ct rose gold serve as bridges, arranged in a pure geometric perspective. Only the two barrels and the regulating organ are visible. This development with its unprecedented architecture, with its large bridges decorated with Côtes de Fleurier alternating with a sandblasted plate, references the great tradition of watchmaking in a minimalist and contemporary aesthetic configuration.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Intense green has been added to the dials and interchangeable straps of four new Overseas models in pink gold, a first for this collection. In perfect harmony with the spirit of travel, this new hue can now be found on the dials of the 35mm gemset, 41 mm date, 42.5 mm chronograph and 41 mm dual time models. Water-resistant to 150 metres, each of these new timepieces is equipped with a top-quality self-winding calibre featuring meticulous finishing. The movements feature an oscillating weight engraved with the collection’s emblematic compass rose. On these four models, just as on all Overseas watches, the pink gold bracelet with folding clasp is easily adjustable. It can be replaced by a calfskin leather strap or a green rubber strap, each with an interchangeable pin buckle.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

Architectural, geometric and intricately faceted, the DEFY Skyline’s 42mm steel case is a modernized take on the earliest DEFY’s octagonal case with a multi-sided bezel. Retaining the same DNA of robustness and durability as its predecessors while bringing an edgier and more contemporary aesthetic and proportions. In the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, the pushers follow the sharply drawn lines of the case, while the screw-down crown emblazoned with the star emblem helps ensure a water-resistance of 100 metres (10ATM).

Available in metallic black, blue or silver, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph’s dial pairs the collection’s signature starry sky-patterned dial featuring engraved four-pointed stars with the traditional El Primero dial configuration. Three slightly oversized and overlapping counters show the elapsed seconds and minutes of the chronograph, as well as the constant running seconds. The date window – matching the colour of the dial – is positioned at 4:30, another El Primero signature. The flange ring with the 1/10th of a second scale has twelve facets, the form of the dodecagonal bezel and serving as extensions of the hour markers.

This Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva, Rolex unveils a stunning array of timepiece novelties, showcasing the brand’s unparalleled craftsmanship and innovation. Among the highlights are the latest additions to iconic collections such as the Perpetual 1908, Day-date, Deepsea and Daytona, each boasting refined designs and cutting-edge technology. Rolex continues to set the standard for luxury watchmaking with its unwavering commitment to precision, durability, and timeless elegance, cementing its status as a true horological powerhouse.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Rolex is introducing two new Oystersteel versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Both feature a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic – introduced last year – whose graduation is clearly visible thanks to its platinum coating, applied via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The first watch is fitted with an Oyster bracelet, while the second sports a Jubilee bracelet. The black lacquer dial bears the inscription ‘GMT-Master II’ in green, echoing the colour of the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand – an element that features strongly in the model’s design. The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

Rolex is enriching the Day-Date range with new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 showcasing finely worked dials. Ombré dials make their debut on the Day-Date 40. The version presented, in 18 ct Everose gold, introduces slate ombré – a completely new hue for such a dial, whose surface, coloured at the centre, progresses to a deep black around the edge. Also appearing for the first time on the ombré dial of this watch are faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18 ct pink gold. Until now, Rolex ombré dials were set with diamond hour markers and were reserved for the Day-Date 36.
Fashioned from 18 ct white gold, a second new version of the Day-Date 40 features a dial made of pearlized white mother-of-pearl. This natural material is used on the model for the very first time. Extracted from the oldest and noblest part of the oyster shell, pearlized mother-of-pearl has a subtle, rich structure whose irregular texture evokes tiny overlapping clouds and gives a sense of volume. Every disc of material used to create a mother-of-pearl dial is meticulously selected for the harmony of its patterns and finesse of its iridescent effects, and is positioned in a way that optimizes the dial’s shine. On the version presented, the shimmer of the mother-of-pearl is further enhanced by the ten baguette-cut diamonds set onto the dial as hour markers.

Perpetual 1908

Rolex is presenting a new version of the Perpetual 1908, which was launched last year. In 2024, the watch is decked in 950 platinum and graced with an ice blue dial featuring a guilloche rice-grain motif. This rosette-like design is distinctive for its three-dimensional, repeating geometric pattern that extends across the surface of the dial, starting from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The minute track is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, which is also guilloché.
With the introduction of a dial created via guillochage, or engine turning – a technique that uses a turning tool to sculpt a pattern into a surface – Rolex is pursuing the course it has set for the Perpetual collection as a tribute to the classic art of watchmaking infused with the brand’s knowhow and creativity. This exclusive dial bears the same Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, the same faceted hour markers and the same hands as that of the 18 ct gold versions. The watch presented is mounted on a brown alligator leather strap fitted with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp. The 1908 is equipped with calibre 7140, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology that features bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out oscillating weight. Calibre 7140 enables the 1908 to display the small seconds, as well as the hours and minutes.

Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

Rolex is unveiling an original version of the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea. This divers’ watch is presented in 18 ct yellow gold for the first time and sports a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic as well as a blue lacquer dial bearing the name ‘DEEPSEA’ in powdered yellow.

This new version also incorporates a technical innovation: the high-performance compression ring within the Ringlock system is crafted from ceramic. A marvel of precision engineering, this Cerachrom ring is the result of a pioneering manufacturing process. Coloured blue and embellished with a circular satin finish and inscriptions that are engraved then gilded, this component also marks a new way of integrating ceramic into a watch case: the compression resistance and anti-deformation properties of this high-tech material contribute to the waterproofness of the watch. The Rolex Deepsea is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex is unveiling two new precious and exclusive versions of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona distinctive for their contrasting dial made from natural mother-of-pearl and graced with eight diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers. Both watches are crafted in 18 ct white gold and crowned with a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds.

The first version, fitted on an Oysterflex bracelet, features a dial in white mother-of-pearl with chronograph counters in black mother-of-pearl. The colour combination is reversed on the second watch, which has an Oyster bracelet and a black mother-of-pearl dial with white mother-of-pearl counters. The discs of material used for the dial and the counters are positioned to optimize the colour intensity of each variety of mother-of-pearl and further enhance the contrast between them. This design called for the creation of a specific and technically demanding manufacturing process. The Cosmograph Daytona is equipped with calibre 4131, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology that features bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out oscillating weight. Calibre 4131 enables the Cosmograph Daytona to measure intervals of time via the chronograph function, in addition to displaying the hours, minutes and seconds.

Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

Rolex presents two new 18 ct gold versions of the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, each sporting a Jubilee bracelet. It is the first time that this watch for world travellers has been fitted with a Jubilee bracelet in precious metal. The first version is crafted in 18 ct Everose gold and features a slate dial, while the second, fashioned from 18 ct yellow gold, displays an intense white dial.

The two Jubilee bracelets are equipped with an Oysterclasp, the clasp traditionally used on the Sky-Dweller. And, like the majority of Rolex bracelets made from precious materials, they include ceramic inserts inside their links. The Sky-Dweller is equipped with calibre 9002, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology that enables it to display the date and the month, as well as an additional time zone in 24-hour format, and the hours, minutes and seconds.

On the occasion of the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 Salon, Patek Philippe is innovating in technical terms by endowing its regular collection with the first World Time watch to feature a date display synchronized with local time. The manufacture also stands out by the elegance of the new models, as illustrated by the grand return of the chain-style bracelet in the Golden Ellipse line. In addition, the vast array of Patek Philippe collections has seen subtle new interpretations in the areas of the travel watches, the calendar watches and the elegantly sporty models, as well as in the Twenty~4 ladies’ collection, which this year celebrates its 25th anniversary.

Patek Philippe World Time, with a date display synchronized with local time

Launched as a limited edition at the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, Reference 5330 is now entering the manufacture’s regular collection. This new-generation World Time is distinguished by a patented world first: a date display synchronized with local time. To offer this useful and user-friendly function, Patek Philippe developed a new movement, the self-winding caliber 240 HU C, featuring an innovative differential system indicating the date on the periphery of the dial by means of a center hand in transparent glass with a red hammer-head-style tip. The new World Time Reference 5330G-001 in white gold has a dial in blue-gray opaline, its center adorned with a “carbon” motif.

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Instantly recognizable by the shape of its case, the Golden Ellipse, launched in 1968, has made its mark as a style icon in the Patek Philippe collections. Patek Philippe is now reviving that tradition by unveiling the new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 on an elegant chain style bracelet in rose gold that follows the contours of the wrist and offers superb comfort while complementing the finesse of the case. The product of 15 years’ development, this new bracelet, secured by an engraved clasp with three adjustment notches (and remarkably easy to shorten or lengthen), combines modern, patented construction –making it possible to recreate the style of the classic chain bracelets –with manual assembly and finishing, perpetuating the skills of the artisan chain-makers. This new chain-style bracelet is launched as an exclusive feature of the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R- 001.

Patek Philippe Travel Watches

Ever since the globe was divided into 24 time zones at the end of the nineteenth century, Patek Philippe has accompanied the rapid growth in transcontinental travel, with models enabling the traveler to juggle all the planet’s different times. The 1930s saw the arrival of the famous World Time watch, now equipped with a date display synchronized with local time. At the end of the 1950s, the Travel Time system of dual time zones made its debut. It has since become available in a wide variety of watches in very different styles. Today three new versions are enriching the range.

The very essence of the travel watch with its sporty elegant Pilot style, the Alarm Travel Time (2019) claims the spotlight in a new version with a touch of two-tone: a case in rose gold and the tubes of the four pushers in white gold. This Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG-001 also stands out by its two- tone dial: gray sunburst and charcoal gray, and applied Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands in charcoal-gray white gold with a luminescent coating. Powered by the caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS self- winding movement, leading to four patent applications for the alarm, this Grand Complication unites the exclusive Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone with a 24-hour alarm mechanism, with a hammer striking on a classic gong.

After steel and rose gold, the Aquanaut Travel Time with a self-winding movement now presents the first version in white gold, set off by a dial in blue-gray opaline and a matching integrated strap in a composite material. The harmonious color scheme accentuates the watch’s modern, casual chic. This new Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164G-001, equipped with the caliber 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement, is distinguished by its system for the display of a second time zone, combining excellent legibility with ease of operation. Its owner has only to press on one of the two pushers set into the left flank of the case to advance or move back the local-hour hand (the solid hand) in one-hour steps, without any effect on the watch’s rate accuracy. The date indication by a hand on the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock is coupled with the local time.

In 2021, Patek Philippe welcomed into its Aquanaut range a travel watch equipped with a new quartz movement incorporating the Travel Time function, combined with a practical, discreet setting system using the crown. This timepiece made its debut in a rose-gold case with a diamond-set bezel and a white dial and strap. The manufacture has now brought out a new version in rose gold without diamonds. This Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269R-001 also attracts the eye with its blue-gray opaline dial embossed with the Aquanaut motif, and its integrated strap in a matching composite material, the patented fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. Contrasting polished and satin-brushed finishes accentuate the lines of the case, which measures 38.8 mm in diameter.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar

Whether one considers the precious perpetual calendars – classic Grand Complications par excellence –or the ingenious Annual Calendar, which the manufacture patented in 1996, Patek Philippe offers a wide range of calendar watches distinguished by their exterior features and their particular display mode. And now the range has become even more extensive.

In 2021, Patek Philippe unveiled a new perpetual calendar with day, date and month indications in one large aperture at the 12 o’clock position. Equipped with its distinctive patented display mode, this timepiece was launched in a platinum case framing a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery. The manufacture is now revisiting this platinum model, endowing it with a rose-gilt opaline dial of vintage inspiration presenting facetted baton-style applied hour markers and facetted baton-style hands, all in charcoal-gray white gold. The caliber 31-260 PS QL ultra-thin self-winding movement is notable for its additional module, awarded three patents, and its mini-rotor in platinum increasing the winding power. The new in-line perpetual calendar Reference 5236P-010 joins the platinum version, distinguished by its blue dial with a black-gradient rim, in the regular collection.

With their sapphire-crystal back protected by a hinged dust cover, and their straight lugs, the “Officer’s”- style perpetual calendars with a retrograde date hand are among the models most sought after by devotees of rare timepieces –particularly when the case and the dial center are fully engraved by hand, as in Reference 5160/500G-001 in white gold, launched in 2016. Patek Philippe has now reinterpreted this exceptional model in rose gold with a silvery opaline gold dial presenting applied Breguet numerals in blackened white gold and pear-shaped hands in black-oxidized yellow gold. Equipped with the caliber 26-330 S QR self-winding movement, this new Rare Handcrafts Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Reference 5160/500R-001 replaces the previous version in white gold.

With its double day/month aperture at 12 o’clock and date aperture at 6 o’clock and its subsidiary 24- hour dial incorporating a moon-phase display, the men’s Annual Calendar Reference 5396, launched in 2006, has established itself as a firm favorite. Patek Philippe is now bringing out a new version in white gold featuring a blue sunburst dial with a black gradient at the rim lit discreetly by the radiance of twelve baguette-cut diamond hour markers (0.26 ct). This elegant contrast plays up the extreme restraint and legibility of the dial design, with its facetted dauphine-style hands in white gold and slender sweep seconds hand. This new Annual Calendar Reference 5396G-017 houses the caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H self-winding movement.

Patek Philippe Ladies Watches

Launched in 1999 in a steel case set with diamonds, the Twenty~4 – the first Patek Philippe collection dedicated entirely to women –made its mark as a classic example of timeless elegance, suited to every occasion. In 2018, this line, built initially around the “manchette” (or “cuff-style”) model with a quartz movement, enriched its offer with a new Twenty~4 Automatic in a round case. To celebrate 25 years of feminine seduction and success, Patek Philippe is now bringing out a new version of the “manchette” model in rose gold. The extremely refined dial of this Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-010 is embossed with a motif of concentric waves, before being coated with several dozen fine layers of translucent lacquer, the first layers tinted purple, the later layers colorless, creating delicate plays of light and depth.

The Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph Reference 5980, launched in 2006, has offered the choice of versions in rose gold or in two-tone steel and rose gold since 2010. Patek Philippe now revisits this elegantly sporty model in a new version in white gold with a blue-gray opaline dial, on which the rounded- baton style hands and the baton-style applied hour markers stand out clearly in white gold with a white luminescent coating. The dial’s refined color continues through to the two straps delivered with the watch, one in blue-gray calfskin, its embossed “denim” motif edged with contrasting white hand-stitching; the other in a composite material presenting a fabric motif, in blue-gray with contrasting white stitching. Endowed with a slightly enlarged dial opening, this new Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 houses a caliber CH 28-520 C self-winding movement grouping the chronograph indications in one large mono-counter at 6 o’clock.

After the launch of an Annual Calendar in the Aquanaut collection in March 2023 and an Haute Joaillerie minute repeater in November 2023, Patek Philippe continues to enrich the Aquanaut line, with a new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 in white gold adorned with diamonds and blue sapphires, showcasing the “snow” and “baguette” settings. A chequered setting of gems on the dial recalls the Aquanaut collection’s emblematic motif. On the rounded octagonal bezel, baguette-cut sapphires form a subtle gradation from light blue to dark blue. This delicate harmony of nuances continues through to the integrated composite strap, in a new shade of dark blue. This watch is endowed with a caliber 26-330 S self-winding movement, which may be admired through the sapphire-crystal back.

Step into the world of horological innovation as we unveil the top 10 novelties from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. From groundbreaking complications to exquisite design, these prestigious unveilings redefine the boundaries of craftsmanship and sophistication. Explore the pinnacle of horological artistry as renowned brands showcase their latest creations, each one a testament to innovation, tradition, and timeless elegance. Get ready to be captivated by the most anticipated novelties of the year, as Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 continues its legacy as the ultimate destination for horological excellence.

Cartier Santos-Dumont

Playing with the concept of time and defying gravity: the daring legacy of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont soars over the new Santos collections, which exude the spirit, style and magic of a free-spirited pioneer. Coated with a thin layer of less than a thousandth of a millimetre of smoothed and hand-polished lacquer, everything hinges on the finesse of this translucent lacquer, which adds brilliance, contrast and depth to the dial’s colours. This stunning timepiece features rose gold case and bezel coated with peacock blue lacquer, crown set with a sapphire, satin-finish blue sunray-brushed dial with Arabic numerals, rose gold-finish steel sword-shaped hands along with a semi-matte blue alligator leather strap with rose gold ardillon buckle.

Chopard L.U.C. XPS Forest Green

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green celebrates the three core values of the L.U.C collection: technical performance, aesthetic refinement and a commitment to certified watchmaking. The all-new Forest Green sector-type dial boasts a fusion of vintage charm and modern watchmaking excellence. The 40-mm Lucent Steel™ case is both responsibly produced and well-proportioned for a wide variety of wrist sizes. The dial is enchanting, with traditional touches of Chopard design, from the case and lugs to the signature rhodium-plated Dauphine hands. The “Chronometer” inscription is visual recognition that the L.U.C 96.12-L calibre housed in the L.U.C XPS Forest Green meets the most stringent accuracy tests as performed by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute).

Hublot – Big Bang MP 11, 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire

The MP-11 has been the power behind the most daring aesthetic interpretations: ceramic, SAXEM, Magic Gold, 3D carbon. But sapphire remains Hublot’s material of choice. The Manufacture is the undisputed expert in its use, with probably the widest range of shades in the watch industry. The 2024 edition of the MP-11 is no exception to the long tradition of innovation at the heart of Hublot’s DNA. For the first time, it will be available in “Water Blue” sapphire.
To allow their 336 hours of power reserve to reach the movement, Hublot had to design a tailor-made device: a 90° transmission which uses a helical worm gear, following the principle of an endless screw. The Hublot HUB9011 calibre, with 270 components, is also distinguished by its patented index-assembly system and silicon escapement which protects the movement from any electromagnetic or thermal interference.
The Big Bang MP-11 can be wound manually using the large fluted crown with a worm screw type relief that echoes the helical gear, or an electric Torx stylus. This sculptural construction is truly worthy of the name “Manufacture Piece”, earning its place in the MP collection.

Panerai – Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition

Panerai, the proud partner of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team, dedicates one of the highest expressions of watchmaking expertise, the Tourbillon, to pay homage to the team in their quest for the America’s Cup. Limited to just 20 pieces, the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 is set to debut in July 2024 in the lead-up to the America’s Cup finals.
The PAM01405 Experience Edition is the first Submersible in 45mm to feature the tourbillon complication and also the first of its kind to marry the complexity of a tourbillon with the futuristic appeal of CarbotechTM, a composite material based on carbon fiber. Indeed, the watch’s case in CarbotechTM purposely echoes one of the materials most represented into the composition of Luna Rossa’s boat hull, made almost entirely of carbon fiber. PAM01405 features a 45mm case, scaling down from previous Submersible Tourbillons, yet maximizing wearability without compromising its impressive presence. At its core, the hand-wound P.2015/T mechanical caliber results from three years of dedicated development, with the assembly of the movement and tourbillon cage demanding eight painstaking hours of craftsmanship.

Parmigiani Fleurier – Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

The collection’s latest addition, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date continues in the same clean, minimalist aesthetic. Reflecting the House’s functional and chromatic style, combining high-end finishes with exceptional watchmaking work, it is an object strongly in demand by watch purists. To meet the expectations of true purists of watchmaking design, Parmigiani Fleurier chose to give the “Golden Siena” dial time indications but no date window. In its quest for distinctiveness, Parmigiani Fleurier created a shade with moiré effects directly inspired by the rich “sienna” palette, thus celebrating the subtle nuances and naturalness of the earth. Long a favorite of elite brands, this refined and elegant hue goes perfectly with the masculine wardrobe.

The 3.07mm-thick PF703 caliber with automatic winding by micro-rotor is decorated in accordance with the rules of watchmaking excellence for the utmost in elegant finesse. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Golden Siena measures just 7.8mm on the wrist for maximum comfort and elegance. Much of the finishing is done by hand, following the intangible rules of high-level watchmaking craftsmanship.

Piaget – Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

To mark this special anniversary, Maison Piaget has performed an outstanding feat, a first in watchmaking history. 150 years after the Maison was first founded, 67 years after it invented its first ultra-thin calibre – the 9P – and 6 years after it revealed the thinnest watch in the world, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, in 2018, Piaget has once again pushed the boundaries of horological ingenuity.

Shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness, this unrivalled timepiece boasts 2 mm, the same thinness as its predecessor. All the while, it shelters the beating heart of a tourbillon. A natural next step in the Maison’s journey, this invention is both a technical and emotional milestone. With a diameter of 41.5 mm, a guaranteed water resistance to a depth of 20 meters and a blue PVD-treated cobalt alloy case, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon appears to possess all the features of an everyday watch, however, its 2 mm thickness and its tourbillon take it to a different plane: that of the extraordinary.

Roger Dubuis – Orbis in Machina

With only 88 editions, the new Orbis in Machina presents a dual perspective of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon craftsmanship. The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. The manual-winding Calibre RD115 marks the Maison’s latest significant milestone and is housed inside the Orbis In Machina watch.
Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the Calibre RD115 is a Flying Tourbillon just like all Roger Dubuis tourbillons made since 2003. Innovation also comes in the use of materials: to increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti- magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. The Orbis Machina is crafted in 18K pink gold case and bezel presented on a black leather strap.

Tag Heuer – Carrera Chronograph Skipper

Following a welcome return to the world of yachting with last year’s release of the Carrera Skipper chronograph in steel, TAG Heuer is delighted to announce a new version of the watch featuring a case made from 18K 5N rose gold. Like the steel model, the gold Skipper is based on the best-selling ‘glassbox’ design launched in early 2023 to mark the 60th anniversary of the celebrated Carrera chronograph and is powered by the Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-06) in-house calibre – a version of the Heuer 02 movement especially adapted for regatta timing.
Creating the 39mm case in 18K 5N rose gold, which combines fine brushed and polished finishes, elevates the Skipper to a level of sophistication that is sure to appeal to high-end collectors – but its usefulness as a fully-functional sailing watch remains uncompromised.

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

A collector’s timepiece, The Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph 50-piece limited edition has joined the Collection Excellence Platine. Combining two noble complications with the latest technological advances, this model pays tribute to the grand watchmaking traditions with an aesthetic that is as functional as it is original in terms of its display. Attired in platinum throughout its 42.5 mm-diameter case, crown, dial, clasp and strap stitching, this watch powered by Calibre 3200. Developed to mark the brand’s 260th anniversary, this movement incorporates a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon regulator.
The perfectly legible dial features a large tourbillon aperture at 12 o’clock, while the 45-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o’clock and the power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. The movement’s mechanical characteristics can be admired through the sapphire caseback, including its column-wheel adorned with a Maltese cross, its lateral friction clutch, its two hammers for zero-resetting the chronograph hands, as well as the peripheral tourbillon drive. The meticulous finishing endows this Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph with a special radiance stemming from a blend of mechanical complexity and aesthetic elegance.

Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Jour Nuit 38 mm

Awed by the spectacle of the stars, Van Cleef & Arpels is reinventing the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch, introduced in 2008, with two new models 33 and 38- mm in diameter that required three years of development. The diamond-paved moon and stars perpetually pursue the sun, embellished with snow-set yellow sapphires, or alternatively guilloché yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, these pieces portray the immensity of the cosmos and the magic of a starry night. A veritable feat of technical design, the aventurine glass presents delicate openwork to hold the diamond-set white-gold stars.
The mother-of-pearl shrouds symbolize the horizon framing the poetry of space. White for the 38-mm case and painted blue for the 33-mm model, they both exhibit a guilloché effect. A sapphire crystal covers the rear of the case and the oscillating weight, adorned with a polished star-studded sky. Decorated using the enamel decal technique, they reveal a protective fairy admiring the winsome ballet of the planets.