Step into the world of horological innovation as we unveil the top 10 novelties from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024. From groundbreaking complications to exquisite design, these prestigious unveilings redefine the boundaries of craftsmanship and sophistication. Explore the pinnacle of horological artistry as renowned brands showcase their latest creations, each one a testament to innovation, tradition, and timeless elegance. Get ready to be captivated by the most anticipated novelties of the year, as Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 continues its legacy as the ultimate destination for horological excellence.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Playing with the concept of time and defying gravity: the daring legacy of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont soars over the new Santos collections, which exude the spirit, style and magic of a free-spirited pioneer. Coated with a thin layer of less than a thousandth of a millimetre of smoothed and hand-polished lacquer, everything hinges on the finesse of this translucent lacquer, which adds brilliance, contrast and depth to the dial’s colours. This stunning timepiece features rose gold case and bezel coated with peacock blue lacquer, crown set with a sapphire, satin-finish blue sunray-brushed dial with Arabic numerals, rose gold-finish steel sword-shaped hands along with a semi-matte blue alligator leather strap with rose gold ardillon buckle.
Chopard L.U.C. XPS Forest Green
The L.U.C XPS Forest Green celebrates the three core values of the L.U.C collection: technical performance, aesthetic refinement and a commitment to certified watchmaking. The all-new Forest Green sector-type dial boasts a fusion of vintage charm and modern watchmaking excellence. The 40-mm Lucent Steel™ case is both responsibly produced and well-proportioned for a wide variety of wrist sizes. The dial is enchanting, with traditional touches of Chopard design, from the case and lugs to the signature rhodium-plated Dauphine hands. The “Chronometer” inscription is visual recognition that the L.U.C 96.12-L calibre housed in the L.U.C XPS Forest Green meets the most stringent accuracy tests as performed by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute).
Hublot – Big Bang MP 11, 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire
The MP-11 has been the power behind the most daring aesthetic interpretations: ceramic, SAXEM, Magic Gold, 3D carbon. But sapphire remains Hublot’s material of choice. The Manufacture is the undisputed expert in its use, with probably the widest range of shades in the watch industry. The 2024 edition of the MP-11 is no exception to the long tradition of innovation at the heart of Hublot’s DNA. For the first time, it will be available in “Water Blue” sapphire.
To allow their 336 hours of power reserve to reach the movement, Hublot had to design a tailor-made device: a 90° transmission which uses a helical worm gear, following the principle of an endless screw. The Hublot HUB9011 calibre, with 270 components, is also distinguished by its patented index-assembly system and silicon escapement which protects the movement from any electromagnetic or thermal interference.
The Big Bang MP-11 can be wound manually using the large fluted crown with a worm screw type relief that echoes the helical gear, or an electric Torx stylus. This sculptural construction is truly worthy of the name “Manufacture Piece”, earning its place in the MP collection.
Panerai – Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition
Panerai, the proud partner of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team, dedicates one of the highest expressions of watchmaking expertise, the Tourbillon, to pay homage to the team in their quest for the America’s Cup. Limited to just 20 pieces, the Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 is set to debut in July 2024 in the lead-up to the America’s Cup finals.
The PAM01405 Experience Edition is the first Submersible in 45mm to feature the tourbillon complication and also the first of its kind to marry the complexity of a tourbillon with the futuristic appeal of CarbotechTM, a composite material based on carbon fiber. Indeed, the watch’s case in CarbotechTM purposely echoes one of the materials most represented into the composition of Luna Rossa’s boat hull, made almost entirely of carbon fiber. PAM01405 features a 45mm case, scaling down from previous Submersible Tourbillons, yet maximizing wearability without compromising its impressive presence. At its core, the hand-wound P.2015/T mechanical caliber results from three years of dedicated development, with the assembly of the movement and tourbillon cage demanding eight painstaking hours of craftsmanship.
Parmigiani Fleurier – Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date
The collection’s latest addition, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date continues in the same clean, minimalist aesthetic. Reflecting the House’s functional and chromatic style, combining high-end finishes with exceptional watchmaking work, it is an object strongly in demand by watch purists. To meet the expectations of true purists of watchmaking design, Parmigiani Fleurier chose to give the “Golden Siena” dial time indications but no date window. In its quest for distinctiveness, Parmigiani Fleurier created a shade with moiré effects directly inspired by the rich “sienna” palette, thus celebrating the subtle nuances and naturalness of the earth. Long a favorite of elite brands, this refined and elegant hue goes perfectly with the masculine wardrobe.
The 3.07mm-thick PF703 caliber with automatic winding by micro-rotor is decorated in accordance with the rules of watchmaking excellence for the utmost in elegant finesse. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Golden Siena measures just 7.8mm on the wrist for maximum comfort and elegance. Much of the finishing is done by hand, following the intangible rules of high-level watchmaking craftsmanship.
Piaget – Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
To mark this special anniversary, Maison Piaget has performed an outstanding feat, a first in watchmaking history. 150 years after the Maison was first founded, 67 years after it invented its first ultra-thin calibre – the 9P – and 6 years after it revealed the thinnest watch in the world, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, in 2018, Piaget has once again pushed the boundaries of horological ingenuity.
Shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness, this unrivalled timepiece boasts 2 mm, the same thinness as its predecessor. All the while, it shelters the beating heart of a tourbillon. A natural next step in the Maison’s journey, this invention is both a technical and emotional milestone. With a diameter of 41.5 mm, a guaranteed water resistance to a depth of 20 meters and a blue PVD-treated cobalt alloy case, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon appears to possess all the features of an everyday watch, however, its 2 mm thickness and its tourbillon take it to a different plane: that of the extraordinary.
Roger Dubuis – Orbis in Machina
With only 88 editions, the new Orbis in Machina presents a dual perspective of Roger Dubuis’ iconic tourbillon craftsmanship. The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. The manual-winding Calibre RD115 marks the Maison’s latest significant milestone and is housed inside the Orbis In Machina watch.
Built from 283 components and with 29 rubies, the Calibre RD115 is a Flying Tourbillon just like all Roger Dubuis tourbillons made since 2003. Innovation also comes in the use of materials: to increase resistance to magnetic fields and keep perfect control of the weight, the lower tourbillon cage is in anti- magnetic titanium – twice lighter than stainless steel – while the upper tourbillon cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the tourbillon to be reduced by 16%. The Orbis Machina is crafted in 18K pink gold case and bezel presented on a black leather strap.
Tag Heuer – Carrera Chronograph Skipper
Following a welcome return to the world of yachting with last year’s release of the Carrera Skipper chronograph in steel, TAG Heuer is delighted to announce a new version of the watch featuring a case made from 18K 5N rose gold. Like the steel model, the gold Skipper is based on the best-selling ‘glassbox’ design launched in early 2023 to mark the 60th anniversary of the celebrated Carrera chronograph and is powered by the Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-06) in-house calibre – a version of the Heuer 02 movement especially adapted for regatta timing.
Creating the 39mm case in 18K 5N rose gold, which combines fine brushed and polished finishes, elevates the Skipper to a level of sophistication that is sure to appeal to high-end collectors – but its usefulness as a fully-functional sailing watch remains uncompromised.
Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph
A collector’s timepiece, The Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph 50-piece limited edition has joined the Collection Excellence Platine. Combining two noble complications with the latest technological advances, this model pays tribute to the grand watchmaking traditions with an aesthetic that is as functional as it is original in terms of its display. Attired in platinum throughout its 42.5 mm-diameter case, crown, dial, clasp and strap stitching, this watch powered by Calibre 3200. Developed to mark the brand’s 260th anniversary, this movement incorporates a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon regulator.
The perfectly legible dial features a large tourbillon aperture at 12 o’clock, while the 45-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o’clock and the power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. The movement’s mechanical characteristics can be admired through the sapphire caseback, including its column-wheel adorned with a Maltese cross, its lateral friction clutch, its two hammers for zero-resetting the chronograph hands, as well as the peripheral tourbillon drive. The meticulous finishing endows this Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph with a special radiance stemming from a blend of mechanical complexity and aesthetic elegance.
Van Cleef & Arpels – Lady Arpels Jour Nuit 38 mm
Awed by the spectacle of the stars, Van Cleef & Arpels is reinventing the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch, introduced in 2008, with two new models 33 and 38- mm in diameter that required three years of development. The diamond-paved moon and stars perpetually pursue the sun, embellished with snow-set yellow sapphires, or alternatively guilloché yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, these pieces portray the immensity of the cosmos and the magic of a starry night. A veritable feat of technical design, the aventurine glass presents delicate openwork to hold the diamond-set white-gold stars.
The mother-of-pearl shrouds symbolize the horizon framing the poetry of space. White for the 38-mm case and painted blue for the 33-mm model, they both exhibit a guilloché effect. A sapphire crystal covers the rear of the case and the oscillating weight, adorned with a polished star-studded sky. Decorated using the enamel decal technique, they reveal a protective fairy admiring the winsome ballet of the planets.