Alexandre Ghotbi is one of the leading horological personalities in the world. As Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East for Phillips Watches, he has a front row seat for all the significant happenings in the horological world. As a top collector for three decades, he has a unique perspective on horology, ranging from mainstreams to independents as well as micro-brands. Not to mention his love for high-end bespoke shoes. His Instagram page @the_vintage_lounge is enough to make any watch lover drool. I have known Alex since 2007; it is a real privilege and honour to have the opportunity to interview him for Katsbling.

Hi Alex, Welcome to Katsbling and a huge thank you for this opportunity to interview you. I vividly remember how I met you. It was 2007 and you had just founded the The Hour Lounge, Vacheron Constantin’s (VC) online community (now shifted to Instagram), the first of its kind in the industry. I was among the first members. Another member had posted a soon-to-be-launched VC, which was under embargo. I had commented on the post. You then removed both the post and my comment, and privately emailed me the reason for doing so. And we began conversing by email and became friends since. Over these years, I have learnt a great deal from you, all things horology, whether it is about brands, their history, designs, movements, vintage watches, independents and micro-brands and more. Most importantly, your perspective helped me devise my own framework for understanding watches better, for which I am eternally grateful.

Kunal Khemka [KK]: Alex, please tell us about how you developed a love for watches? What event or incident transpired for you to fall so deeply in love with horology?

Alexandre Ghotbi [AG]: As far back as I can remember I have been fascinated by watches. I remember when the Swatch watch came out in 1982 or 1983, I was exchanging them with my friends and as I grew older, the more I became captivated. When I graduated from law school and began to looking for a job, the firm I accepted to work with was not the best known or the one paying the most, but the one where the partner I was to work with had a different watch on every time I went for an interview. Choosing my career based on someone’s watch led me to understand that I was absolutely hooked!

[KK]: How did you go from being a Lawyer in Paris to working part-time for Vacheron Constantin (VC) to working for them full time? How was your time at VC? Any interesting experiences or anecdotes you wish to share?

[AG]: I was the co-founder of a watch discussion forum called The Purists (now Watchprosite) and was consulting for brands in terms of digital and CRM (Client Relations Management). VC’s offer to work for them full time and to move to Geneva was a big life decision but one that I made in 5 seconds. Working at Vacheron was an eye opener because it is impossible for someone who hasn’t worked for a manufacture to realize the incredible diversity of departments, positions and crafts needed to make and sell a watch.

[KK]: You founded The Hour Lounge, VC’s online community and the first ever such platform in the entire industry. And later you founded The Hour Club, VC’s online platform for owners. Both significant achievements. You have also authored books on VC grand complications. Your love for VC goes back a long time, much before it was the powerhouse it is today. Please elaborate a bit on why you love VC so much.

[AG]: The offices of that first law firm I worked at were right across the street from a VC authorized dealer and I would always stop by and drool at the Mercators, Minute Repeaters and Tourbillons they were carrying, and the brand really spoke to me. When I wanted to buy a pink gold watch, the only one I could afford was a vintage one and it was a VC. Then I met the different team members, and they were such amazing people.

[KK]: Your love for independent watchmaking is well known. Tell us something about your fascination for them? How did it come about? Why is independent watchmaking important for the industry?

[AG]: My very first nice watch bought in the mid-1990s was a Daniel Roth! I have always loved quirky disruptive designs and the independents in the 1990s were all about this. Remember the Daniel Roth cases, or the Roger Dubuis Sympathie, or the Vianney Halter Antiqua? Well, these guys fascinated me, and they still do. Independent watchmakers dare to do things differently, they take risks, put their soul in their watches and that’s what makes these pieces so relevant.

[KK]: What are some of your favourite independents apart from De Bethune? Your love for De Bethune is legendary. Feel free to speak about De Bethune as well. What is it about them that you love?

[AG]: De Bethune are creating 21st century watchmaking, constantly innovating. I also have a great respect for the likes of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, Urwerk, MB&F and the new generation like Rexhep Rexhepi or Sylvain Pinaud.

[KK]: What is your opinion on large pre-owned watch outfits buying brands? For example, WatchBox buying De Bethune. Some feel it could be the end of De Bethune. But maybe De Bethune will thrive under financially strong ownership. Perhaps the same way modern A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger LeCoultre and VC have thrived under Richemont ownership. What is your perspective on this topic?

[AG]: I think that the fact that WatchBox bought DeBethune is a good thing, it gave them financial breath.

[KK]: Your high-end shoe collection is also fascinating. What made you interested in this world? Do you see any similarities between high-end bespoke shoes and high end / independent watchmaking?

[AG]: Ha-ha, yes, I love shoes too, especially the ones made by independent artisans. I like the craftsmanship and the interaction with the maker.

[KK]: Why did you leave VC and join the world of watch auctions at Phillips Watches? What is it like working for a blue-chip auction house such as Phillips? And more specifically, what is it like working with the legendary Aurel Bacs?

[AG]: After close to 8 years at VC it was time for a change, and I had always had a passion for vintage watches. Working at Phillips is like being at play 24/7. It is fascinating, I get to see the world’s rarest and most beautiful watches and meet incredible collectors. Aurel is a good friend and working with him is nothing but pleasure. I have learnt a lot from him.

[KK]: How much work goes into each auction? I am sure the reality is different from the fantasy, and it is not always about first-class travel, gourmet food, wine, and caviar.

[AG]: I only wish. It’s like everything, 90% hard difficult work and 10% glamour. We see around 1000 watches per sale and finally only choose around 200-250 for each sale.

[KK]: Other than the PNPN Daytona of 2017, your most amazing find? And most amazing live auction experience?

[AG]: We had the Rolex GMT of Marlon Brando, the only Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel to come to auction, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that no one had ever seen before or George Daniel’s personal double sided tourbillon wristwatch, to name just a few.

[KK]: What is the most common reason people consign their watches at auction? I remember you once told me that often the third generation are so disconnected from their first-generation relatives, that they do not hesitate in consigning their grandparents watches at auction. While this is business for an auction house, do you personally feel sad every time someone consigns a watch for this very reason? For example, a grandson consigning a rare Patek, or Rolex owned by his late grandfather just because he did not really know him well.

[AG]: Collections evolve, and most people sell their watches to fund other projects. However, I don’t feel people should attach themselves to objects and in fact I don’t find it sad that a 3rd generation sells a watch, as I prefer the watch to be with a collector who truly appreciates it rather than with someone who keeps it in a drawer and doesn’t care about it.

[KK]: When people think of auctions (any category); they picture a room with mostly old men and women. Have the demographics changed? In terms of location of the sellers, location of the buyers, and average age group of both? Are a lot of younger buyers and sellers, and more women, dominating the scene at auctions?

[AG]: The demographics have changed drastically in the past 5-6 years; we see a much younger audience from the Middle East or from South Asia.

[KK]: Phillips Watches has been part of a few amazing collaborations with watch brands, where both Aurel Bacs and you have been involved in the design process. Such as with Zenith, Laurent Ferrier, and more recently Bvlgari Octo. What does this add for Phillips Watches? Is this a way of rewarding your best clients with ultra-limited-edition watches? And is it possible to buy watches from Phillips Watches outside the auction room and auction season?

[AG]: We are not designers, and this is not our main business but with Aurel we truly enjoy this. It is more for fun, and it also sets Phillips apart from other auction houses. We also have a boutique in London and Gstaad with an online presence that allows collectors to access tightly curated watches outside of the auction season.

[KK]: What are your thoughts on the current trend of Artificial Scarcity, Hype Watches, and the games Brands’, Ads’, Grey Market and Flippers play? Will this madness ever end?

[AG]: To be honest I’m not sure that the scarcity is truly artificial, the fact that you can’t get a Royal Oak, a Nautilus or steel Rolex just comes from the fact that there are many many more people wanting one than the brand can produce. What I find a shame is that this has brought in those who consider watches as investments or purely as financial assets. But things have calmed down and we see a return on the market of the true collectors.

[KK]: Social Media has changed the game a lot. While channels such as Facebook and Instagram have made this hobby more accessible and democratic, there is also an unpleasant side to it, especially that of excessive display of wealth, and ones need for validation, which often can be overwhelming for many and difficult for most to compete with. Given this, how do you define a Collector? Does one necessarily have to own a Patek Phillipe or FP Journe and own a Rolex Daytona to be ‘labelled’ a collector?

[AG]: I think being a collector is more a state of mind and not only about budget. It’s a desire to know about the object of collection.

[KK]: One last question for our readers at Katsbling; please share some of your tips on building a collection? Whether one is a beginner or an amateur who already owns a few watches?

[AG]: Buy what you love and not something to impress others. Do your homework and learn as much about the watch/brand you are interested in and buy the absolute best you can afford.

[KK]: Alex, you are one of the kindest people I have ever met, and a huge asset to the world of horology. And with this, thanks so much for your valuable time. It has been a real pleasure interviewing you.

[AG]: Thank you very much Kunal for the interview and your kind words. We have been friends for so many years that you probably could have answered all the questions for me!

Parmigiani Fleurier presents Rosa Mystica, the latest in a series of five unique pieces in the “Grand Feu Collection”, introduced in December 2022 with the Rosa Celeste and its blue Grand Feu enamel.

On this new creation signed by the Maison, a magistral red Grand Feu enamel adorns the dial and the engraved “Rose Carrée” on the back of this exceptional novelty. This miracle of red fire is embellished with a natural garnet cabochon on the 18-karat white gold case, adding finesse to the magnificence of the hand engraving.

Between the petals of this horological flower, Parmigiani Fleurier has concealed a manually wound minute repeater caliber with cathedral gongs. Its skeletonization and beveling bring together the best of Parmigiani Fleurier’s watchmaking expertise and craftsmanship in a unique and poetic piece.

The watch case is mounted on a hand-sewn alligator leather strap in red, the reverse side of which is also in alligator leather. With a diameter of 42 mm, the case is cut from white gold blocks. The bezel, lugs and caseband are hand-engraved with the La Rose Carrée motif.

In 1999, with the launch of the very first chronographs in the collection, Vacheron Constantin made Overseas watches the symbol of horological pleasure geared towards travel and escapism. In keeping with this tradition, the collection now includes a chronograph in a new steel “panda” version – an aesthetic principle dating back to the motorsports-dedicated timepieces of the 1960s. This new timepiece features silver-toned, sunburst satin-finished dial, snailed black counters, black velvet-finished flange, 18K white gold hour-markers and hours, minutes, seconds and counters hands, highlighted with Super-LumiNova®.

The mechanical heart of the watch, in-house self-winding Calibre 5200, features a 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose, a symbol of travel and exploration, visible through a sapphire caseback. The movement also has a twin barrel fitted with a column wheel complete with a Maltese cross-shaped screw and used to control the start-stop-reset chronograph function. Reflecting the collection’s versatile elegance, the timepiece comes with an interchangeable wristband system enabling the wearer to switch tool-free from a steel bracelet with half-Maltese cross links to a calfskin or black rubber strap.