Vacheron Constantin, the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison with nearly 270 years of expertise and history, unveils elegant new timepieces at Watches & Wonders 2023.

Overseas Self-Winding

Designed to reflect a spirit of elegance adorned with robustness, attention to detail and aesthetics adapted to every circumstance, the Vacheron Constantin is introduces four new models of The Overseas collection in pink gold and steel, featuring a 35 mm diameter of the gemset versions and 34.5 mm for the non-set models. The models have new diameters, which are now slimmer and more ergonomic, giving them a slender appearance. Calibre 1088/1 has been chosen to power these pieces. Equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism enabling precision adjustment, it is fitted with the 22K gold rotor bearing the collection’s emblematic compass rose, which ensures winding with a 40-hour power reserve.

Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

For the first time ever, the Overseas line incorporates a retrograde display, a function that is part of Vacheron Constantin’s living heritage and continually reinvents itself. The new model keeps the collection iconic attributes immediately recognisable: six-sided bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes, translucent lacquered dial, luminescent hour-markers and hands, by combining them with a retrograde date and a precision moon-phase. Equipped with in-house 5.4mm- thick Calibre 2460 R31L/2, this timepiece reflects the grand watchmaking traditions in the inherently modern and contemporary spirit of the Overseas collection.

Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

Since its founding in 1755, the Manufacture has cultivated the refinement of its watches as an art form, corresponding to one of the Bauhaus principles holding that “less is more”. This is reflected in the new Patrimony retrograde day-date in 950 platinum with a salmon-toned dial which perpetuates a refined style and elegance and technicality.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

The expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the heart of this Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface timepiece. The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement – with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment – perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, gains depth in a functional and contemporary style.

DANIEL ROTH was a storied independent watch brand revered by collectors during its first golden age in the early nineties. The revival of DANIEL ROTH begins with the Tourbillon Souscription, a meticulous homage to the brand’s original tourbillon wristwatch of 1988, a landmark watch that is now being reimagined by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Limited to 20 pieces, the Tourbillon Souscription is executed in traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, with the case of it being a double ellipse. Formed from a plate of solid yellow gold, the dial is decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche just as the original was.

The dial is produced in the mountain-top workshop of Kari Voutilainen, one of the leading independent watchmakers of today. Although the dial retains the same markings as on the original, the typography has been streamlined to give it contemporary finesse.

Under the dial is the in-house manufacture calibre DR001 conceived exclusively for DANIEL ROTH. The DR001 is manufactured entirely by La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva workshop founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini – both master watchmakers who will personally oversee the creation of each DANIEL ROTH timepiece.

The centrepiece of the DR001 is its tourbillon regulator. Devised to capture the singular style of the original, the tourbillon makes one revolution every minute, allowing it to function as a seconds hand. As a result, the tourbillon cage carries a three-armed, heat-blued seconds hand that is read in tandem with a tri-sectioned seconds scale on the dial – a quirky detail found on all original DANIEL ROTH tourbillon watches.

It is that time of the year again. Many of the global watch and jewellery brands, authorised dealers, collectors, journalists, bloggers and influencers, and other key stakeholders – all of whom comprise the global luxury watch and jewellery community – will come together at Geneva, Switzerland during 27 March to 2 April to take part in Watches & Wonders 2023. One can only predict what the various brands will launch. Each with it’s own priorities- their launches could include anything from time-only pieces, mid-level complications, jewellery pieces, grand complications, and even new horological innovations. Often, their launches also include new variations of models already in their catalogue, such as new case metals, different colour dials, bejewelled watches, to name a few. The anticipation and suspense of what will be unveiled is exciting to say the least. Such is the global nature of the watch collecting world, that collectors – based in New York, Dubai, New Delhi, or Sydney – are going to be glued to their screens in anticipation. In spite of the excitement and buzz Watches & Wonders creates each year, I would like to highlight three timeless horological designs which have been in their respective brands’ catalogues for years and have stood the test of time. After all, this moment offers time to reflect not only on what is new, but also on what is enduring.

Cartier Santos

“The Santos watch was conceived by Louis Cartier in 1904 to help aviators tell time mid-flight. Since then, this pioneering wristwatch has become an icon, defined by its geometric dial, harmoniously curved horns, and signature exposed screws.”

The Cartier Santos can trace its roots back the early 1900s. The Santos collection of today takes the spirit of Louis Cartier’s creation of the past and blends it into a modern and contemporary wristwatch collection. The current Santos collection has about sixty models, for both men and women with options to suit individual needs and budgets. The range includes time-only watches (both with and without date), chronograph, open-worked, and diamond pieces. Some models have an interchangeable strap mechanism, allowing the wearer to switch between bracelet and strap. The entire range, depending on the individual model, is powered by a quartz, automatic, as well as hand-wound movements.

Whether one chooses a stainless-steel model, two-tone model, gold model, or a bejewelled model, each manifests the unmistakable Santos design. Often, rectangular watches are typically not as sought after as round wristwatches. The Santos proves an exception to this rule. It is one of the greatest designs in horology and one of the most recognizable. It is timeless. It is as relevant and fresh today, and will remain so in the distant future, as it was 119 years ago when it was first introduced.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso

The Jaeger LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso has its roots in game of Polo during the times of Colonial India. Legend has it that Cesar De Tray – a Swiss businessman – while on a trip to India in 1930, was requested by a British Army Officer at a Polo Match to create a watch that would withstand the physical demands of Polo. Mr. Tray shared the idea with his friends at the brand -then known as LeCoultre- and the rest, as they say, is history. In 1931, the Reverso was launched. A rectangular watch with a patented reversible case so that the dial side could be turned over to protect it from physical harm while playing Polo. What began as a robust watch for a physical sport, is today a horological icon. The current Reverso collection includes about forty models, for all genders, and something to suit individual needs and budgets. The range includes time-only watches, with complications, and several bejewelled pieces. Models displaying time only on one side are known as “Monoface,” leaving the ‘blank’ side open to personal engraving and miniature art creations. Mens’ models which show time on both sides are known as “Duoface,” and Ladies’ models showing the same are known as “Duetto”. The entire range is powered by a combination of JLC’s impressive in-house quartz, hand-wound and automatic movements.

The very nature of the Reverso allows it to be a superb platform for different aesthetics, complications, precious stones, miniature artwork, and grand complications. JLC has used the Reverso to showcase ultra-grand complications, including the first ever three sided grand-complication – the Reverso Grand Complication a Triptyque of 2006. With nineteen complications, it is one of the most complicated wristwatches of all time. And more recently the impressive open-worked Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater of 2021. Whether one chooses a simple stainless-steel Reverso Monoface or a precious metal Reverso Duoface or Duetto, one can be assured that they are wearing horological greatness on their wrist. The Reverso is one of the greatest horological designs of all time. As timeless today as it was in 1931, and as it will be another 92 years later and beyond.

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

“…its design was inspired by the principle of the ‘golden section’ discovered by the ancient Greek mathematicians. This “divine” proportion, expressed as a ratio of 1 / 1.6181, forms the basis of some of history’s greatest works of art and architecture.”

The Patek Philippe (PP) Golden Ellipse was launched in 1968 and is the oldest family of watches in PP’s current catalogue. The Golden Ellipse has an elliptical case.The current Golden Ellipse collection has only three models: rose gold with ebony black sunburst dial; platinum with blue gold sunburst dial; and white gold with hand-engraved and black enameled dial- each powered by PP’s legendary in-house ultra-thin automatic calibre 240. Introduced in 1977 during the quartz crisis, it is a masterpiece in the world of automatic calibres. Evolving over the years, the version inside the Golden Ellipse benefits from PP’s innovations such as the patented “Gyromax” balance and “Spiromax” balance spring and adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal.

While the Golden Ellipse is not the most ‘talked about’ or ‘sought after’ PP, it has an horological pedigree which is second to none. It is the perfect embodiment of discreet elegance and class, and it whispers wealth without screaming about it. Its simplicity speaks volumes about its owner, the gentleman or lady who wants their work to speak for itself. It is the horological equivalent of owning and driving a Rolls Royce. The Golden Ellipse is both a Patek Phillippe icon and an horological icon, that comes about once in a generation, and an heirloom that will last generations. It can hold its own and towers above almost any watch that may come its way. It will be as relevant today and 100 years from now, as it was in 1968.

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet unveils a new version of its 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model, entirely crafted in 18-carat yellow gold and illuminated by a natural turquoise dial. Used by the Egyptian and Chinese civilisations more than 3,000 years ago, turquoise is among the world’s oldest stones reputed to have many spiritual benefits while bringing health, good luck and protection.

The first 37 mm Royal Oak variation in yellow gold since 2018, this model is equipped with the latest selfwinding hour, minute, seconds and date movement from the Manufacture, Calibre 5900, which first appeared in 2022 on certain 37 mm references. This movement combines a slim 3.9 mm thickness, a high 4Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire caseback revealing the 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight along with the refined decorations adorning the components, such as the polished angles, vertical satin brushing, Côtes de Genève, circular graining and chamfering.

The new 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model extends its creative heritage by combining the natural brilliance of turquoise with a case entirely crafted in yellow gold, giving life to a timepiece with a resolutely sunny personality and positive vibes.

Alexandre Ghotbi is one of the leading horological personalities in the world. As Head of Watches, Continental Europe and Middle East for Phillips Watches, he has a front row seat for all the significant happenings in the horological world. As a top collector for three decades, he has a unique perspective on horology, ranging from mainstreams to independents as well as micro-brands. Not to mention his love for high-end bespoke shoes. His Instagram page @the_vintage_lounge is enough to make any watch lover drool. I have known Alex since 2007; it is a real privilege and honour to have the opportunity to interview him for Katsbling.

Hi Alex, Welcome to Katsbling and a huge thank you for this opportunity to interview you. I vividly remember how I met you. It was 2007 and you had just founded the The Hour Lounge, Vacheron Constantin’s (VC) online community (now shifted to Instagram), the first of its kind in the industry. I was among the first members. Another member had posted a soon-to-be-launched VC, which was under embargo. I had commented on the post. You then removed both the post and my comment, and privately emailed me the reason for doing so. And we began conversing by email and became friends since. Over these years, I have learnt a great deal from you, all things horology, whether it is about brands, their history, designs, movements, vintage watches, independents and micro-brands and more. Most importantly, your perspective helped me devise my own framework for understanding watches better, for which I am eternally grateful.

Kunal Khemka [KK]: Alex, please tell us about how you developed a love for watches? What event or incident transpired for you to fall so deeply in love with horology?

Alexandre Ghotbi [AG]: As far back as I can remember I have been fascinated by watches. I remember when the Swatch watch came out in 1982 or 1983, I was exchanging them with my friends and as I grew older, the more I became captivated. When I graduated from law school and began to looking for a job, the firm I accepted to work with was not the best known or the one paying the most, but the one where the partner I was to work with had a different watch on every time I went for an interview. Choosing my career based on someone’s watch led me to understand that I was absolutely hooked!

[KK]: How did you go from being a Lawyer in Paris to working part-time for Vacheron Constantin (VC) to working for them full time? How was your time at VC? Any interesting experiences or anecdotes you wish to share?

[AG]: I was the co-founder of a watch discussion forum called The Purists (now Watchprosite) and was consulting for brands in terms of digital and CRM (Client Relations Management). VC’s offer to work for them full time and to move to Geneva was a big life decision but one that I made in 5 seconds. Working at Vacheron was an eye opener because it is impossible for someone who hasn’t worked for a manufacture to realize the incredible diversity of departments, positions and crafts needed to make and sell a watch.

[KK]: You founded The Hour Lounge, VC’s online community and the first ever such platform in the entire industry. And later you founded The Hour Club, VC’s online platform for owners. Both significant achievements. You have also authored books on VC grand complications. Your love for VC goes back a long time, much before it was the powerhouse it is today. Please elaborate a bit on why you love VC so much.

[AG]: The offices of that first law firm I worked at were right across the street from a VC authorized dealer and I would always stop by and drool at the Mercators, Minute Repeaters and Tourbillons they were carrying, and the brand really spoke to me. When I wanted to buy a pink gold watch, the only one I could afford was a vintage one and it was a VC. Then I met the different team members, and they were such amazing people.

[KK]: Your love for independent watchmaking is well known. Tell us something about your fascination for them? How did it come about? Why is independent watchmaking important for the industry?

[AG]: My very first nice watch bought in the mid-1990s was a Daniel Roth! I have always loved quirky disruptive designs and the independents in the 1990s were all about this. Remember the Daniel Roth cases, or the Roger Dubuis Sympathie, or the Vianney Halter Antiqua? Well, these guys fascinated me, and they still do. Independent watchmakers dare to do things differently, they take risks, put their soul in their watches and that’s what makes these pieces so relevant.

[KK]: What are some of your favourite independents apart from De Bethune? Your love for De Bethune is legendary. Feel free to speak about De Bethune as well. What is it about them that you love?

[AG]: De Bethune are creating 21st century watchmaking, constantly innovating. I also have a great respect for the likes of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, Urwerk, MB&F and the new generation like Rexhep Rexhepi or Sylvain Pinaud.

[KK]: What is your opinion on large pre-owned watch outfits buying brands? For example, WatchBox buying De Bethune. Some feel it could be the end of De Bethune. But maybe De Bethune will thrive under financially strong ownership. Perhaps the same way modern A. Lange & Sohne, Jaeger LeCoultre and VC have thrived under Richemont ownership. What is your perspective on this topic?

[AG]: I think that the fact that WatchBox bought DeBethune is a good thing, it gave them financial breath.

[KK]: Your high-end shoe collection is also fascinating. What made you interested in this world? Do you see any similarities between high-end bespoke shoes and high end / independent watchmaking?

[AG]: Ha-ha, yes, I love shoes too, especially the ones made by independent artisans. I like the craftsmanship and the interaction with the maker.

[KK]: Why did you leave VC and join the world of watch auctions at Phillips Watches? What is it like working for a blue-chip auction house such as Phillips? And more specifically, what is it like working with the legendary Aurel Bacs?

[AG]: After close to 8 years at VC it was time for a change, and I had always had a passion for vintage watches. Working at Phillips is like being at play 24/7. It is fascinating, I get to see the world’s rarest and most beautiful watches and meet incredible collectors. Aurel is a good friend and working with him is nothing but pleasure. I have learnt a lot from him.

[KK]: How much work goes into each auction? I am sure the reality is different from the fantasy, and it is not always about first-class travel, gourmet food, wine, and caviar.

[AG]: I only wish. It’s like everything, 90% hard difficult work and 10% glamour. We see around 1000 watches per sale and finally only choose around 200-250 for each sale.

[KK]: Other than the PNPN Daytona of 2017, your most amazing find? And most amazing live auction experience?

[AG]: We had the Rolex GMT of Marlon Brando, the only Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel to come to auction, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that no one had ever seen before or George Daniel’s personal double sided tourbillon wristwatch, to name just a few.

[KK]: What is the most common reason people consign their watches at auction? I remember you once told me that often the third generation are so disconnected from their first-generation relatives, that they do not hesitate in consigning their grandparents watches at auction. While this is business for an auction house, do you personally feel sad every time someone consigns a watch for this very reason? For example, a grandson consigning a rare Patek, or Rolex owned by his late grandfather just because he did not really know him well.

[AG]: Collections evolve, and most people sell their watches to fund other projects. However, I don’t feel people should attach themselves to objects and in fact I don’t find it sad that a 3rd generation sells a watch, as I prefer the watch to be with a collector who truly appreciates it rather than with someone who keeps it in a drawer and doesn’t care about it.

[KK]: When people think of auctions (any category); they picture a room with mostly old men and women. Have the demographics changed? In terms of location of the sellers, location of the buyers, and average age group of both? Are a lot of younger buyers and sellers, and more women, dominating the scene at auctions?

[AG]: The demographics have changed drastically in the past 5-6 years; we see a much younger audience from the Middle East or from South Asia.

[KK]: Phillips Watches has been part of a few amazing collaborations with watch brands, where both Aurel Bacs and you have been involved in the design process. Such as with Zenith, Laurent Ferrier, and more recently Bvlgari Octo. What does this add for Phillips Watches? Is this a way of rewarding your best clients with ultra-limited-edition watches? And is it possible to buy watches from Phillips Watches outside the auction room and auction season?

[AG]: We are not designers, and this is not our main business but with Aurel we truly enjoy this. It is more for fun, and it also sets Phillips apart from other auction houses. We also have a boutique in London and Gstaad with an online presence that allows collectors to access tightly curated watches outside of the auction season.

[KK]: What are your thoughts on the current trend of Artificial Scarcity, Hype Watches, and the games Brands’, Ads’, Grey Market and Flippers play? Will this madness ever end?

[AG]: To be honest I’m not sure that the scarcity is truly artificial, the fact that you can’t get a Royal Oak, a Nautilus or steel Rolex just comes from the fact that there are many many more people wanting one than the brand can produce. What I find a shame is that this has brought in those who consider watches as investments or purely as financial assets. But things have calmed down and we see a return on the market of the true collectors.

[KK]: Social Media has changed the game a lot. While channels such as Facebook and Instagram have made this hobby more accessible and democratic, there is also an unpleasant side to it, especially that of excessive display of wealth, and ones need for validation, which often can be overwhelming for many and difficult for most to compete with. Given this, how do you define a Collector? Does one necessarily have to own a Patek Phillipe or FP Journe and own a Rolex Daytona to be ‘labelled’ a collector?

[AG]: I think being a collector is more a state of mind and not only about budget. It’s a desire to know about the object of collection.

[KK]: One last question for our readers at Katsbling; please share some of your tips on building a collection? Whether one is a beginner or an amateur who already owns a few watches?

[AG]: Buy what you love and not something to impress others. Do your homework and learn as much about the watch/brand you are interested in and buy the absolute best you can afford.

[KK]: Alex, you are one of the kindest people I have ever met, and a huge asset to the world of horology. And with this, thanks so much for your valuable time. It has been a real pleasure interviewing you.

[AG]: Thank you very much Kunal for the interview and your kind words. We have been friends for so many years that you probably could have answered all the questions for me!