Katia Jundi, founder of Katsbling, sits down with Gianfranco Gentile, Breitling’s Global Head of Heritage, to discuss the iconic Swiss brand’s legacy and evolution. From its bold use of yellow as a signature color to its enduring connection to aviation and innovation, Breitling’s history is deeply intertwined with pioneering design and functionality. In this interview, Gentile offers a behind-the-scenes look at the brand’s heritage, its influence on watchmaking, and the significant role women have played in Breitling’s story. The conversation delves into key milestones, including Breitling’s aviation partnerships and their forward-thinking approach to both chronograph and diving watches.
[KJ]: I want to start the interview with a pop of color! When we first walked into the museum, you picked up a beautiful Breitling book, turned a page, and pointed out that yellow has been part of Breitling’s identity since the 1950s. Can you share the story behind that?
[GG]: It was a stroke of genius by Willy Breitling, who was one of the most important figures in our history, and his communication advisor, George Kaspari. They recognized that in the 1950s, most brands were still using black and white for advertisements. To stand out, they chose yellow—a bold, flashy color that wasn’t used by any other brand at the time. After researching other brands’ colors, they saw yellow as a way to break the mold. They used it in all our communication materials and visual merchandising, which was quite shocking to some retailers back then. To emphasize this bold decision, they even created an internal document called “Top Secret,” mimicking a classified government file, but in yellow.
The impact of yellow was so significant that even in the early 2000s, during the Schneider era, it remained a key part of the brand. I remember at Baselworld, the communication director had a syringe filled with yellow liquid on stage, saying, “We all have yellow in our veins.” It was a creative way to emphasize how deeply the color is embedded in our brand identity. Over the years, yellow may have faded slightly during the 1980s and 1990s when we used more blue, but in the 2000s, yellow re-emerged as the defining color of Breitling, and it still is today.
[KJ]: You definitely stood out then, and you still do now. Despite the decades passing, it still has the same effect.
[GG]: Absolutely. And what’s interesting is that I can only think of one other watch brand that is similarly linked to a specific color. It’s really a conscious choice that has paid off over the years.
[KJ]: Breitling’s strong ties to aviation are well-known. How have you maintained that connection with the aviation world over the years?
[GG]: Breitling’s aviation connection dates back to the 1930s, when Willy Breitling was asked by the British War Office to design cockpit clocks for fighter planes. This led to the creation of the HUIT Aviation Department—HUIT meaning “eight-day” in French, as these clocks had an eight-day power reserve. That was our first real aviation link. Then, in the 1950s, we introduced the Navitimer, which came about through a request from the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) to create a chronograph tailored for pilots. It’s a watch that has since become an icon.
After that, in 1983, we were asked by the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian aerobatic team, to design a chronograph specifically for their pilots. A year later, in 1984, inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch the Chronomat was launched to celebrate 100 years of Breitling and to mark the return of the mechanical chronograph, which had all but disappeared when quartz watches dominated the marketplace in the 1930s. These collaborations have been constant, from military aviation to aerobatic teams and commercial airlines. Just last month, we announced a new partnership in aviation. So, the connection remains strong.
[KJ]: That’s an incredible legacy. You’re known for being pioneers and innovators, and this museum is clearly designed to communicate that. Can you highlight a few specific innovations that speak to that pioneering spirit?
[GG]: Certainly. One of the most groundbreaking innovations is the 1934 patent that established the modern shape of the chronograph. The design of having a crown at three and two pushers at two and four has since become industry standard, and it was a Breitling innovation. So, no matter what chronograph someone is wearing today, it’s likely following the design we pioneered almost a century ago.
Another key innovation is our diving chronograph. Breitling is often associated with aviation, but in 1957, Willy Breitling recognized the growing interest in diving—largely due to figures like Jacques Cousteau. So, he launched the Superocean, the first diving chronograph. I’m actually wearing a modern version of it today. It was revolutionary at the time because it gave divers the ability to track time more precisely, thanks to the chronograph function, on top of the standard rotating bezel found on most dive watches. The Superocean has continued to evolve over the decades and remains a central part of our collection.
[KJ]: That’s fascinating. Breitling is often perceived as having a very masculine aesthetic, but I’ve noticed many references to women throughout the museum. Can you elaborate on Breitling’s relationship with women over the years?
[GG]: It’s true that Breitling has been positioned as a masculine brand in recent decades, particularly with how we’ve communicated. However, women have played a significant role in Breitling’s history since the 1930s. For example, we produced a nurse’s watch in the 1930s that was worn upside down and pinned to uniforms, allowing nurses to check the pulse of patients.
In the 1950s, we had a huge selection of jewelry and cocktail watches—there were about 50 different references in one catalog alone, including brooches and secret watches made from precious materials. Women have also been central to shaping the brand. Willy Breitling’s wife, Beatrice, named one of our most successful products, the Top Time. In the 1967 movie *Fathom*, Raquel Welch wore a Breitling Navitimer, a men’s watch, in her role as a secret agent. This was a deliberate choice by Willy Breitling, who wanted to associate the brand with strong, empowered women.
[KJ]: It’s great to see how you’re dismantling that macho perception of the brand. When you were curating this museum, what were some of the biggest challenges and most rewarding aspects?
[GG]: The biggest challenge was definitely timing. We didn’t have a lot of time to pull everything together, and finding the right location in the heart of Zurich was tough. This building is 700 years old, which adds both character and complexity. We couldn’t attach anything to the walls, so we had to create self-standing structures to showcase everything.
The most rewarding moment came during the opening night. Gregory Breitling, Willy’s son, lent us some family watches for the exhibition. He told me, “It was my father’s dream to have a museum, and you made it happen.” That was incredibly moving for me, and it felt like a full-circle moment for the brand.
[KJ]: That’s truly special. Thank you so much for sharing these stories and insights. It’s been a pleasure.
