Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Pearl Exclusive Collection

Reimagining the iconic Bird on a Rock with the world’s rarest pearls
by Mariam Yasin

“For me, the art of jewelry is, first of all, a means of expression, providing possibilities for pure and durable beauty that are outside the usual framework of fashion.” — JEAN SCHLUMBERGER

 


Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) created jewelry and objects of unparalleled beauty. He was a man of refined taste—an artist who conceived spectacular jeweled statements with an incredible sense of dimension and life. Deeply imaginative, Jean Schlumberger’s magnificent creations are enduring icons that reflect both the artist’s ingenuity and the technical virtuosity of Tiffany’s expert craftsmanship. The legendary partnership between Tiffany & Co. and Jean Schlumberger began in 1956, when Walter Hoving, then chairman of Tiffany & Co., asked Schlumberger to join the company as vice president. Schlumberger created some of Tiffany’s most iconic designs including the Bird on a Rock clip, his intricate paillonné enamel bangles and bold colored rings, the Cooper bracelet and the Sixteen Stone diamond ring.


Bird on a Rock


Revered by style leaders and connoisseurs for its design excellence, timeless style and colorful optimism, here are 5 facts to know about Jean Schlumberger’s Iconic Bird on a Rock:

1. The iconic Bird on a Rock resembles the Yellow Cockatoo or Cockatiel bird. It is believed that the design was likely inspired by this bird and Jean’s brilliant imagination.

2. The unmounted 128 carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond was re-mounted for the second time ever on a Schlumberger design – making the Bird on a Rock a global icon.

3. Ranging from 15 to 120 carats, the stones are selected based on their beauty, shape, depth and color intensity. Sourced responsibly, carefully hand selected – each stone is completely unique.

4. The design is available in three styles: Oval, Cushion & Emerald, as well as featured in an array of colorful gemstone colors.

5. A fabulous style statement for both men and women alike, The Bird on a Rock brooch can be worn in so many ways.


Bird on a Pearl


The iconic Bird on a Rock, re-envisioned. Handcrafted with the world’s rarest pearls, each Bird on a Pearl design is a breathtaking expression of Jean Schlumberger’s style. As the diamond encrusted bird motif takes flight, it spreads its wings for the first time—showcasing exquisite natural pearls in this high jewelry capsule collection.

This exclusive high jewelry capsule collection reimagines the iconic Bird on a Rock brooch with the world’s rarest pearls. Jean Schlumberger’s signature bird, perched on a gemstone, evolves into a suite of exquisite creations set with the most impressive natural saltwater pearls.

Sourced in the Gulf region and acquired from Mr. Hussein Al Fardan’s private collection, these natural saltwater pearls are recognized as the rarest and most extraordinary in the world. Crafting an entire collection with natural saltwater pearls is an extraordinary achievement. Each pearl is unique and prized for their size, shape and unrivaled luster. Tiffany is the first jewelry house to purchase from Mr. Hussein Al Fardan’s highly coveted private collection of natural pearls.


The Rarity of Natural Saltwater Pearls


The Bird on a Pearl collection is a testament to Tiffany’s legacy in uplifting the most extraordinary and rare gemstones in the world. Out of 10,000 wild oysters, only one will yield a natural pearl suitable for jewelry and of this small number, only a fraction are considered Tiffany quality. The rarity in crafting an entire collection of natural pearls that all possess superlative luster, color, shape and size is groundbreaking. Natural pearls are no longer commercially fished because of their extreme rarity as a result of overfishing coupled with advances in culturing pearls.


Bird on a Pearl Collection


“Crafting an entire collection with natural saltwater pearls is rarely achieved. It is an extraordinary opportunity for our clients to have access to such a prestigious collection of natural saltwater pearls, and for these pearls to be set in designs that pay homage to one of Tiffany’s most iconic creations.” – Vicky Reynolds


Blue Book Doha Exhibition


This past February, Tiffany & Co. hosted an exclusive celebration to unveil Bird on a Pearl, a high jewelry collection that reimagines the iconic Bird on a Rock brooch first created by Jean Schlumberger in 1965. The designer’s signature bird, perched on a gemstone, evolves into a suite of exquisite creations with remarkable natural saltwater pearls. The celebration was commemorated with a gala dinner for over 250 guests held at the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, Qatar. Notable attendees included Yousra, Elyanna, Dorra Zarrouk, Sumaya Rida and more donning in Tiffany & Co. jewelry.


Collection Highlights

Collection Masterpiece


Tiffany designers brilliantly honored Jean Schlumberger’s bird by re-envisioning it taking flight for the first time. The iconic bird spreads its wings and soars across an exquisite three-strand necklace, composed of graduated near-round natural saltwater light cream pearls of over 371 total carats. It takes decades to complete just one strand of natural pearls with uniform shape, color and luster. Achieving a perfectly matched three-strand necklace of natural saltwater pearls is exceptionally rare.


Front Facing Bird


The Bird on a Pearl revisits an icon. Tiffany designers focused on celebrating the original Bird on a Rock by infusing it with the natural sense of movement that Jean Schlumberger designs are so known for. While some designs maintain the bird’s original left-facing stance, this pendant and earrings features the bird in a front- facing position.


Bird on a Pearl Brooches


The Bird on a Pearl capsule pays tribute to Jean Schlumberger’s beloved Bird on a Rock brooch. This is the first time a pearl has ever been showcased in the legendary Tiffany design. The capsule collection will feature seven Bird on a Pearl brooches in varying colors, shapes and sizes, allowing the client to choose their favorite.

Discover more Bird on a Rock exquisitely exclusive pieces on display in the Schlumberger Room at Tiffany & Co Dubai Mall boutique starting April 15th, 2023.

Magana

The birth of the inspired timepiece
by Mariam Yasin

Born out of the vision of its founder Omar Chaoui, a watch industry veteran and watch collector, Magana arrives with a clear vision: to bring together people committed by consuming smartly and responsibly without scarifying their individuality or sense of style. The Magana brand integrates three core values into its DNA: Culture, Togetherness, and Mindfulness.

Launching one model at a time limited to 212 timepieces each, four times a year, the timepieces will be available exclusively through the brand’s website. Aligned with the value of ‘Culture’, the Magana launch will pay tribute to Millenary cities around the world- the first being the city of Fes, a city founded in the 8th century and that remains the cultural capital of Morocco.

The timepiece is created from 316L Stainless steel and treated with a DLC coating to enhance the sporty look of the piece. With a 40mm dial, the watch is powered by a Miyota automatic movement offering a complete calendar – day, date and month – as a useful complication.

Magana has partnered up with TREES FOR THE FUTURE with 5,000 trees in Sub-Saharian Africa already planted through their partnership.

Hublot

New launches Watches & Wonder 2023
by Mariam Yasin

With several outstanding novelties released, this year Hublot truly showcases its mastery in state-of-the-art materials.

Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon


For more than two decades, the philosophy of Hublot’s Nyon-based manufacture has extended to every aspect of contemporary watchmaking: fusing materials, finishes, designs, colours, alloys, techniques and aesthetics. As illustrated in the new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon.

Weighing only 68 grams, this limited edition model, with only 50 pieces issued, fuses traditional Fine Watchmaking with Hublot’s cutting-edge spirit. To begin, the watch comprises two genuine complications: the tourbillon and the micro-rotor. As for the tourbillon, Hublot has designed it to be skeletonized and suspended, integrated within a bottom plate doted with transparent sapphire bridges.


Square Bang Unico Diamonds


This year Hublot is unveiling eight new exclusive variations of the Square Band Unico. The watchmaker has focused its attention on two models in particular, the first in titanium, the second in King Gold, an 18-carat gold alloy with copper and platinum to give it a redder hue than the 5N gold. Each model is available in four different setting levels for eight different references.

In the first level, the bezel is set with 44 white diamonds totalling 1.9 carats with the second level a more jewelled version where the case is also paved with 138 white diamonds totalling 3.3 carats. The third level moves very clearly towards a piece of jewellery with the bezel draped in 50 baguette diamonds. The case, set with 94 diamonds, brings the number of diamonds to 144 with well over 4 carats (4.4 carats precisely).

The fourth level reaches new heights – a piece of ‘high jewellery’. In all, 285 diamonds adorn the case, with both the bezel and dial entirely set in diamonds, achieving a total of almost 18 carats. Each piece (in white gold or King Gold) has an invisible setting, a jewellery technique where the claws holding the stones appear to disappear, creating the feeling that they are simply and delicately placed flush with the gold or titanium.


Square Bang Unico Sapphire & Square Bang Unico Ceramic


Exhibiting the Maison’s exceptional skills through the use of sapphire, the Square Bang Unico Sapphire is offered in a limited run of 250 pieces. Despite the two-fold challenge of its square format and the case’s multi-layered sapphire construction, Hublot’s engineers have successfully ensured that this timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 5 ATM.

The renowned Unico movement, manufactured in-house, has also retained all the distinct features on which its reputation is founded. Set at 4 Hz (28,800 vib/h) and offering a 72-hour power reserve, is the prestigious automatic column-wheel flyback chronograph calibre known as the HUB1280.

The Square Band Unico is also offered in ceramic – in white or black magic.


Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski


Lovers of both art and extreme precision are united in this new chapter of the collaboration, devoted to the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski. With this unique watch comes a 41 mm case that sits perfectly on any wrist. When the magic of fusion reaches a new peak, the watch becomes a true work of art.

Both utterly unique, one is worn with the iconic black rubber strap while the other extends its three- dimensional silhouette along the entire watch, a huge technical feat that combines comfort with aesthetics. In this new collection, the micro-blasted titanium gives the facets a matt finish for an added touch of elegance. With their striking dodecagonal shape – the signature mark of Hublot’s collaboration with Richard Orlinski since 2017 –the bezel transforms into a polygon. These Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski watches have the HUB1153 automatic chronograph movement at their heart.


Takashi Murakami


At an exclusive event which took place at the Glass House in New York on February 2nd, Hublot and Takashi Murakami announced their fourth joint artistic project: the launch of thirteen new NFTs and thirteen unique timepieces. This announcement represents a continuation of past projects, by rewarding the first buyers of the watches and collectors of the first NFTs through an exclusive approach.

These NFTs are linked to a limited edition of 13 new and unique Classic Fusion watches at Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. Twelve of these watches will be available for purchase exclusively online on a platform, which can only be accessed by owners of at least one of the 324 NFTs issued in April 2022 as part of the third collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami.

MARLI New York

New LIFE collection featuring Taylor Hill
by Mariam Yasin

A celebration of life, love and creation is encapsulated in LIFE, the new fine jewelry collection from MARLI New York. A reflection of time and eternity, with LIFE in perpetual motion, in which the brand introduces rings with a spinning movement along with internationally renowned model Taylor Hill as the face of the campaign and new designs.

A row of MARLI New York’s signature pyramid-shaped gemstones appears as a ring and hinge bracelet, available in 18K rose gold and white gold. From the harmony of green agate to the playfulness of pink opal, the gemstone pieces cultivate contrasts with twin rows of shimmering pavé and paved inner bands. Because diamonds embody purity and wholeness, a ring and hinge bracelet with diamonds only are available in 18K rose gold, white gold and yellow gold.

“At the heart of the LIFE collection is this notion that there are many ways of moving forward, even when all stands still,” says Founder & CEO of MARLI New York Maral Artinian.

TAG Heuer

Celebrating 60 years of the TAG Heuer Carrera
by Mariam Yasin

This Watches and Wonders 2023, TAG Heuer celebrates the 60th anniversary of a global icon: the TAG Heuer Carrera. For six decades, the Swiss watchmaker’s timeless model has defined performance watch design, racing spirit, and the culture of success

Carrera Plasma


TAG Heuer’s breakthrough, Diamant d’Avant-Garde technology enabled the Swiss luxury watchmaker to use lab-grown diamonds for the first time ever, in 2022, on a chronograph case, crown, dial, and indexes. The case includes 4.3 carats of 48 lab-grown diamonds, while the bezel features 26 for a total of 1.9 carats, and the bracelet holds 34 for a total weight of 1.9 carats.

The crown is a single 2.5-carat lab-grown diamond, optimized in growth and cut for the sharpest, cleanest fit. Just as impressive is the watch’s top-of-the-line movement, the Calibre Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph.


Carrera Chronograph Glassbox 


The chronograph novelties are presented in two models: one with a signature blue dial on a blue calfskin leather strap, and a second with a racier, black-and-silver “reverse panda” dial. Inside both iterations of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is an evolved version of TAG Heuer’s in-house automatic chronograph caliber, the Heuer 02.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon follows the same design principles and shares a base form with the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, only it has a dial elevated by an aperture at 6 o’clock that reveals a tourbillon cage.


Carrera Chronograph 


Inspired by the handsome, ageless design of the original 1963 Heuer Carrera, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph propels a heroic story into the future with fresh, dynamic styling and a tank full of racing spirit.

There are two new collection pieces, both with 42-mm stainless steel cases. The distinction is in the dial: a choice of blue or black, both decorated with vivid orange detailing that recalls classic race car speedometers. The new models are powered by TAG Heuer’s in-house automatic chronograph Heuer 02 movement. Both are finished with high-end calfskin straps.


Carrera Date 36mm


In the 60th anniversary year of its evergreen, racing-inspired sports watch, TAG Heuer is delighted to introduce an all-new version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36 mm. Colorful new dials, a new tapered bracelet design, and an upgraded movement complete the core collection model’s rebirth.


Aquaracer Professional Full Gold


TAG Heuer is delighted to introduce the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 – a pair of solid 18-karat-gold watches, one features case and bezel in solid 18-karat 5N rose gold, and the other in solid 18-karat 3N yellow gold, powered by the new manufacture Calibre TH31-00, which delivers an 80-hour power reserve – into the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional collection.

Inside both models is a new automatic manufacture movement, created according to the principles of high-end mechanical watchmaking – the Calibre TH31-00, codeveloped by TAG Heuer and AMT, a high-end Swiss movement manufacture based in la Chaux-de-Fonds.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2023
by Mariam Yasin

Parmigiani Fleurier speaks the language of rarity, meaning, form and content, traits shared by all the new models presented at Watches and Wonders 2023.

TONDA PF MINUTE RATTRAPANTE


The TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante caused a sensation in 2022 as a world premiere reinterpreting the meaning of horological “complication” by propelling it towards intuitive innovation. The TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante’s birth was guided by the idea of reinterpreting one of the most common watchmaking functions while helping it evolve to become an absolute innovation. The basic premise: to perform the function usually operated by the graduated bezel on a diver’s watch via the movement itself. The result: user friendliness, excellent legibility and apparent simplicity right the way through to activating the function- serving to display the minutes in five and one-minute increments respectively.


TONDA PF GMT RATTRAPANTE


This iconic timepiece returns in 2023 in an integral 18ct rose gold version, graced with a Milano blue dial featuring a finely barleycorn guilloché pattern. Beneath this traditional watch face lies a complication powering two superimposed hours hands, one in rhodium-plated gold and the other in rose gold. Pressing the 8 o’clock pusher makes the 18ct rose gold hand dedicated to local time perform a one-hour jump, revealing the rhodium-plated gold hand displaying home time. Once the dual-time information is no longer required, pressing the crown-integrated pusher enables the 18ct rose gold hand to resume its place above the rhodium-plated gold hand in the manner of a chronograph split-seconds hand.


CULTURAL CALENDARS TRIOGY SETS


Parmigiani Fleurier presents three timepieces displaying three different calendars: Gregorian, Islamic and Chinese. This exceptional trilogy, made in platinum, is issued in a strictly limited edition of three box sets, reflects the crossroads of culture, civilisation and history, as well as the fine watchmaking to which the brand gives unique meaning. Three collectors will thus have the pleasure of enjoying a calendar trilogy unique in the world.


PLATINUM, THE SIGNATURE OF PARMIGIANI FLEURIER

TONDA PF MICRO-ROTOR


Purity, refined minimalism and discretion have come to characterize the entire TONDA PF collection since its launch in September 2021. After steel with a platinum bezel, and after 18ct rose gold, the iconic TONDA PF Micro-Rotor is evolving into an all-platinum case, bracelet and dial version. The watch is driven by its ultra-thin 3mm self-winding movement with platinum microrotor, Calibre PF703. This enables a significant reduction of thickness, meaning the TONDA PF Micro-Rotor measures only 7.8 mm on the wrist, synonymous with comfort, refinement and elegance.


TONDA PF FLYING TOURBILLON


Platinum rules, in a version combining the precious metal with one of the supreme Haute Horlogerie complications: the Tourbillon. Following on from the 25-piece limited edition presented in 2022, this year’s TONDA PF Tourbillon features a special characteristic: its platinum dial appears in a Milano blue shade that is a favourite with Parmigiani Fleurier. Concealed beneath the Milano blue dial, the calibre developed within the Watchmaking Centre – a flying tourbillon movement with automatic winding via a platinum micro-rotor – reveals some of its 207 components through the transparent case back. This 32.6 mm-diameter Reference PF517 movement is accurate, lastingly reliable and finished to the highest fine watchmaking standards (bevelling, circulargraining, Côtes de Genève) and measures a mere 3.4 mm thick.


TONDA PF SPLIT SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH


Dedicated to short-time measurement, manual winding TONDA PF Chronograph Rattrapante, with its two column-wheels belongs in the category of exceptional watchmaking instruments and is powered by a movement beating at a rate of 5 Hz or 36,000 Vph. This reinterpretation comes with an entirely 18ct rose gold case and bracelet, delivered with an additional alligator leather strap secured by a pin buckle. This model allows the wearer to admire the 18ct rose gold movement with a barrel featuring the signature of Michel Parmigiani, who created it to mark his brand’s 20th anniversary. Featuring Calibre PF36, the movement of the TONDA Split Second Chronograph is a “racing machine” with 309 components, 35 jewels and a 65-hour power reserve.

Roger Dubuis

The Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph
by Mariam Yasin

Determined to push boundaries and to drive tradition into an expressive and contemporary new era, Roger Dubuis has conceived and committed itself to a radical and uncompromising approach, known as Hyper Horology.

Introducing the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph. This ground-breaking creation watch not only controls the forces of gravity, but also highlights the emphatic ingenuity of Roger Dubuis by reinventing both the tourbillon and the oscillating mass, each associated with one of the most complex traditional fine watchmaking complications: the Split-Seconds Chronograph.

While many traditional Tourbillons compensate for the negative effect of gravity on one specific axis, Roger Dubuis has extended that ability across every surface. Positioned at 9 o’clock, the Conical Monovortex Tourbillon has a 360° trajectory, protecting the precision of the watch, no matter the position of the wearer’s wrist.

After years of research, and more than 8 months of technical optimisation, the Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight has been born. Sitting at 12 o’clock, this surprising component is positioned vertically, so that the entire force of gravity pushes down on the design like a spinning barrel.

Powered by the RD114 Calibre, the Monovortex Split-Seconds Chronograph also celebrates the comeback of an iconic complication at Roger Dubuis: the Split-Seconds Chronograph. Cleverly constructed with a double column wheel system, it is enhanced with a Rotating Minute Counter, known as the 120° RMC.

The aesthetics of this watch play with the symmetry of the movement and feature a 47mm casing made of hyper-tech MCF (Mineral Composite Fibre). Exclusively developed by Roger Dubuis, this ingenious material is 2.5 times lighter than ceramic and 13% lighter than carbon.

Chopard

Watches and Wonders 2023 new launches
by Mariam Yasin

Alpine Eagle 41 XPS


Following a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency calibre and a flying tourbillon, Alpine Eagle is extending its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. Measuring just 3.30 mm thick, the L.U.C 96.40-L movement is just one of the feats achieved by the watchmaking artisans of Chopard Manufacture. Its advanced features enable the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy, while guaranteeing 65 hours of power reserve. The Alpine Eagle 41 XPS with its 41 mm-diameter case and integrated bracelet is entirely crafted from Lucent Steel™ with its finishes recognized by the coveted Poinçon de Genève.


Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF


With the comfort of titanium and the strength of an elegant chronometer, Chopard combines precision, style and sportiness in the second high-frequency model within the Alpine Eagle collection. Featuring a Pitch Black dial with subtle orange accents, this exceptional new 41 mm-diameter timepiece houses one of the most advanced movements from Chopard’s workshops.  The chronometer-certified Chopard Calibre 01.12-C featuring a high-frequency escapement reaches its cruising altitude at 57,600 vibrations per hour (8 Hz).


L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph


Presenting the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph: an exclusive, numbered 25-piece limited edition reaffirming Chopard Manufacture’s attachment to the noble values of Haute Horlogerie. This new hand-wound flyback chronograph features a 42 mm case in Lucent Steel™ – Chopard’s exclusive steel endowed with superior properties – along with an English-green dial and L.U.C Calibre 03.07-L delivering chronometer-certified precision. The L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is honoured by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.


L.U.C 1860


In a creative gesture imbued with the innate elegance of the L.U.C collection, Chopard Manufacture draws inspiration from the first timepiece in the collection, presented in 1997, by combining the sophistication of a guilloché dial in salmon-coloured solid gold, a 36.5 mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive Lucent Steel™ alloy, as well as a finely crafted chronometer-certified movement. L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L is wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.


IMPERIALE


IMPERIALE is enriched with a limited numbered edition of 25 original timepieces crafted in ethical 18-carat rose gold and highlighting the magnificence of the lotus flower. Set with sapphires and diamonds and adorned with engraved gold lotus petals, the dial exudes an aura of absolute refinement, brought to life by L.U.C Calibre 96.30-L developed by the Artisans of the Manufacture.


L’Heure du Diamant


The L’Heure du Diamant collection sums up the wealth of artisanal crafts cultivated within Chopard, by artisans ranging from master watchmakers to gemsetters. It is reinvented in a new watch with an oval-shaped case fashioned from ethical 18-carat white or rose gold, graced with a textured mother-of-pearl dial, rimmed with marquise-cut diamonds and houses the Chopard 09.01-C self-winding movement.


Haute Joaillerie


The first white gold model is entirely set with diamonds in a virtuoso arrangement of round and pear shapes, studded with emeralds exuding a mesmerising charm. Nature makes an indelible imprint through to the very heart of the dial, on which 12 pear-shaped diamond hour-markers form a generous rosette.



In another equally splendid jewellery watch, two very rare fancy vivid yellow pear-shaped diamonds light up the dial at 12 and 6 o’clock. These over two-carat precious stones are discreetly held by yellow gold prongs whose colour matches that of the diamonds. The rest of the corolla surrounding this jewellery watch is adorned with white diamonds paired with a grey satin strap.

Patek Philippe

17 new models at Watches & Wonders 2023
by Mariam Yasin

Patek Philippe presents 17 new watch models with innovative technical and aesthetic features, enriching its vast range of collections.

Grand Complications emblematic of Patek Philippe


The manufacture is reinterpreting the design of the double-face reversible case, endowed with a patented rotation mechanism, by presenting it for the first time in a bicolor version combining white gold and rose gold. This new Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300GR-001 also stands out by its two brown opaline dials, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the side displaying the time of day, and its two-tone chestnut brown patinated alligator strap and bicolor folding buckle.



Presenting a new alliance between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001 is shimmering with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 ct) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 ct) in a superb example of the “baguette” and “invisible” setting techniques.



Another outstanding piece, Reference 5316, launched in 2017, unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator. In the Grand Complication Reference 5316/50P-001, Patek Philippe gives this timepiece a unique new modern allure –with a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and black-gradient rim, affording a veiled glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch.



The manufacture is also enriching its selection of minute-repeating wristwatches –the largest such range in a current collection –with two reinterpretations under the heading of Rare Handcrafts. Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model that always strikes the local time –is also the first World Time Minute Repeater in white gold. Its dial center is adorned with a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene depicting one of the famous steamboats still plying the waters of Lake Geneva.



Another new model, Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012, is endowed with a self-winding movement and “cathedral” gongs whose sound is particularly deep and rich. It features a new dial in blue Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a distinctive hand-guilloched swirling pattern.


A new complicated model and refreshed designs in the Calatrava collection


The manufacture is now expanding its range of travel watches with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 featuring the Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24- hour display. The new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement is further distinguished by its patented system for correcting local time by the crown. It is housed in a rose-gold case harmonizing with a blue dial embellished by complex finishing touches, adorned with numerals, hour markers and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold.


 


Patek Philippe is now endowing this distinctive line with its first two chronograph models: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001, with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; and the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. These two watches house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement with three complications: a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function and the date indicated by a hand, coupled with local time.


New functions and new faces for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce


The Aquanaut Luce is now treating itself to a new practical and easy-to-use complication: the patented Annual Calendar. Graced with a blue-gray dial and strap, this Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 in rose gold enhances the choice of complicated watches for women with a non-gemset model.


 


The new self-winding ladies’ Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 coordinates a rose-gold case with a dial and integrated strap in taupe –a warm hue between brown and gray in perfect harmony with this model’s “modern casual chic” style. Its characteristic rounded octagonal bezel is lit by the fire of 48 diamonds. The case is water resistant to 120 m and houses the caliber 26-330 S C self-winding movement with stop seconds.


From technical models to jewelry pieces


Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010 endowed with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial lends a new face to this alliance between two sought-after Patek Philippe complications.


 


The Gondolo collection, comprising the Patek Philippe “form watches” of Art Deco inspiration, announces the return of a jewelry watch with unique style and timeless elegance. The Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001, in rose gold, is set with spessartites arranged in a double color gradient, highlighting the case’s refined curves.


A rich collection of rare handcrafts


Patek Philippe is also unveiling a splendid collection of one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces showcasing the rarest and most refined of the artistic crafts, such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enameling, hand engraving and wood marquetry.

Montblanc

Watches & Wonders 2023 novelties
by Mariam Yasin

On top of the World – Montblanc 8000 Capsule Collection

Montblanc unveils a new capsule collection that pays tribute to the world’s 14 highest peaks and the inspiring alpinists who dared to climb them

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290 – 44mm


Following his recording breaking ascent to Everest with the first Montblanc 1858 0 Oxygen timepiece in May 2022 without supplemental oxygen, Mark Maker Nimsdai Purja continues to serve as the inspiration for the latest edition of the watch – the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290.

The timepiece is powered by Montblanc’s Manufacture automatic chronograph with worldtime complication, Calibre MB 29.27, which has a power reserve of approx. 46 hours. The chronograph functions are made up of a central chronograph seconds hand, a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock, and a 12-hour chronograph counter at nine o’clock – all with orange-tipped hands. The 44mm titanium case, which has been assembled without oxygen, comes with a fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with cardinal points, and a 3D coloured laser engraving on the caseback.


Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 – 42mm


The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 is inspired by Montblanc’s Mark Maker Reinhold Messer, who was the first mountaineer to climb all 14 of the planet’s highest peaks.

The timepiece is powered by the MB 29.25 automatic movement with Manufacture worldtime complication, which includes turning Northern and Southern Hemisphere globes, a 24-hour scale, Day&Night indications, dual time display, and a date. The timepiece comes in a 42mm titanium case with a fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with the cardinal points and is fitted with a Sfumato dark grey glacier pattern dial with orange accents, and an interchangeable titanium bracelet with a taper and fine adjustment system.


Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 – 42mm


The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 is powered by the MB 25.13 automatic chronograph movement with a power reserve of approx. 48 hours. It comes in a 42mm stainless steel “zero oxygen” case and is adorned with a fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with the cardinal points; a dark grey Sfumato glacier patterned dial; and blue luminescence on the hour and minute hands, applied Arabic numerals, and cardinal points. For the functions, there is a black seconds’ counter at nine o’clock, a central chronograph seconds hand with an orange tip, and a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock, also with an orange tip to highlight the chronograph indications.


Montblanc 1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen The 8000 – 41mm


The 1858 Montblanc Automatic Date 0 Oxygen The 8000 comes in a 41mm stainless steel case, again without oxygen, and features a fixed black ceramic bezel with the cardinal points. The dial is fitted with the same dark grey Sfumato glacier pattern as the other models in the collection and includes applied Arabic numerals. Other details include a minute scale with orange indications every 15 minutes, an interchangeable tapered stainless steel bracelet with a fine adjustment system, and an engraving of the “Spirit of Exploration” on the caseback. The watch is powered by the automatic calibre MB 24.15 with approx. 38 hours of power reserve.


Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Collection

A New Color Joins the Collection Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea


Following the success of the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date launched in 2022 with its frozen dials, the Maison returns with a new dial color in an elegant shade of grey inspired by the ice of one of the Mont-Blanc mountain’s largest glaciers – the Mer de Glace. This new Iced Sea edition comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with a caseback featuring a 3D engraving of an iceberg and a black scuba diver exploring the glacial waters below.


Capturing Glaciers in a New Montblanc Boutique Edition


The Maison is also unveiling a new Boutique Edition with a green glacier dial that gives the impression of looking into the depths of glacial ice – a deep emerald green color thanks to iron oxides captured in the ice. This Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Boutique Edition comes in a 41mm stainless steel case and will be available exclusively in Montblanc boutiques across the world.


Limited Edition 1858 Iced Sea Coffret


Montblanc introduces its very first limited-edition box set with three 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date editions in green, blue, and grey, presented in a curated chest.

The Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date collection is now available in a limited-edition box set that includes two timepieces from last year – the green and blue editions – and the latest novelty from this year in glacier grey. Each model is different from previous editions, featuring a colored laser engraving of a different view of the Mont-Blanc: the blue model displays a picture of the Aiguille du Moine, the green one depicts Les Drus, and the grey model shows Les Grandes Jorasses.


Montblanc 1858 Minerva


The Maison unveils a bezel-activated chronograph function to celebrate 165 years of Minerva watchmaking as well as the 100th anniversary of its first wristwatch chronograph movement.

Thanks to a new mechanical function, the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva chronograph is activated via its elegant 18K gold fluted bezel, a feature that defines all new timepieces crafted at the manufacture in Villeret. Just one click of the bezel will start the chronograph, a second click will stop it, and a third click will reset it, transforming the way a chronograph has traditionally been activated. This hidden feature respects the beauty of the historic calibre, while incorporating modern-day know-how to create a contemporary timepiece.


The Montblanc Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph


The Montblanc Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph gets a contemporary look in a limited edition of 88 pieces in distressed steel.

This distressed steel finish is achieved by treating the 43mm stainless steel case with a black coating. The material is then manually washed and brushed with quartzite from the Mont-Blanc and limestones from the “V”-shaped mountain opposite the Villeret Manufacture, called La Combe Grède, bringing the mountain and the valley together. This new version comes with a white gold fluted bezel inspired by Minerva’s first fluted bezel that dates back to 1927. It is fitted with a black nubuck alligator strap with a distressed steel triple-folding clasp, and includes a caseback featuring an engraving of the historic Minerva Manufacture.