Even people who know nothing about Porsche know about the 911, but even most current Porsche owners will probably not have heard of the Porsche 912. Whilst most Rolex owners will know about the Rolex Oysterquartz, few will have ever heard of its predecessor, the Rolex Quartz reference 5100, when it was launched in 1970, the white gold version had a list price of 18,300 Swiss Francs – before tax. And this price was pretty close to that of the Porsche 912; but there was a difference, the 912 was the entry-level Porsche, its six-cylinder engine replaced by the four-cylinder one from the discontinued 365; whilst the 5100 (or to give it its Italian nickname “the Texano”, was – by a considerable margin – the most expensive watch in the Rolex catalogue. It was priced at 2.5 times the price of a Rolex Day-Date on a President bracelet.

Both the 912 and the 5100 disappeared from their respective manufacturer’s catalogues by the end of 1970, and they slowly faded from the memories of those who loved the respective brands, they became almost disposable, and many 912s were turned into race and rally cars, due to their light weight whilst many Texanos were thrown into the smelter’s crucible during the 1980s ‘Gold Rush’ as there was over 300g of 18k gold in each watch.

But sometime in the mid 2000s something changed and both the watch and car began to attract admirers, and for both of them, it was because the wheel of fashion had made a complete revolution. The current Porsche 911 became bigger, heavier and more luxurious; whilst the 912 was the smallest, lightest, most austere version of the body shape ever, and so appealed to enthusiasts who wanted to experience the involvement that the original cars provided. Meanwhile, Rolex, true to their policy of gradual evolution, whilst every other brand was following Panerai with larger cases, Rolex stuck to their tried and true 36mm size case, first introduced in 1945. But the Texano wasn’t like the rest of the Rolex family, it had been oversized in 1970, now it was a fashionable 40mm, and its chunky case and bracelet bore more than a passing resemblance to the Royal Oak Offshore. And it had the great advantage, for a quartz watch, of not having a stepping seconds hand, it glides around the dial more smoothly than most mechanical watches.
Since then, both of them have established a firm, if small collector base and a nice Texano in white gold will cost you about $100,000 nowadays – making it the most expensive time only Rolex without diamonds that you can buy. And $100,000 is, incidentally, also the market price for a nicely restored Porsche 912.

Rolex is the largest, most well-known, and most profitable watch company in Switzerland; everyone knows that, but most people don’t know is that it wasn’t always Swiss. In fact, Rolex was started in London, in 1905, by a 24-year-old Bavarian with the impressive name of Hans Eberhard Wilhelm Wilsdorf and his British business partner Alfred James Davis; the firm they founded wasn’t Rolex – rather it was called, with startling originality, Wilsdorf & Davis.
This wasn’t exactly a name that was easy to pronounce or would easily sit on a dial, so, over the next few years they registered around a dozen trademarks, the advertisement from 1911 lists ten of them, but the only one given its own box is Rolex, a name they had registered in 1908.
The advertisement also shows that the firm was now profitable enough to have offices in Japan and South Africa as well as a Swiss branch located in La Chaux de Fonds, just over 50km from the factory on Bienne where the movements were being made – and where Rolex movements are still made today.
In the beginning, wristwatches were very much only for ladies, but as you can see in the advertisement, men’s watches were also being produced and sold, although rarely with the name Rolex on the dial, usually it was the name of the retailer featured there.
Not long after this advertisement was published, in 1915, Rolex introduced their first calendar watch – this was 30 years before the introduction of the Datejust, usually thought of as the first calendar watch from Rolex, showing that even this early Rolex, were differentiating themselves from the pack.

Audemars Piguet has introduced a trio of special-edition timepieces dedicated to the Middle East, each crafted with the collaborative spirit of loyal UAE collectors who participated in an exclusive “Create the Extraordinary” workshop in Dubai. The collection embodies Audemars Piguet’s dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and cultural resonance, with each piece engraved to commemorate its status as a “Special Edition.”

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin stands out with its titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) construction, a first for this model, paired with a smoky, ivory dial adorned with Hindu-Arabic numerals. Powered by the ultra-thin Calibre 5133, the timepiece showcases a rhodium-toned oscillating weight engraved with a Middle Eastern-inspired arabesque motif, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.

In the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the 41mm case and bracelet are crafted entirely in white ceramic, contrasted by a unique blue aventurine inner bezel and a precisely synchronized double balance wheel mechanism. Meanwhile, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon melds black ceramic with stainless steel and a meteorite dial, adding a cosmic depth that underscores the exclusivity of the piece. Each timepiece in this collection reflects a masterful blend of advanced horology and cultural homage, solidifying Audemars Piguet’s legacy in high watchmaking.

Roger Dubuis unveils the latest chapter in its celebrated Knights of the Round Table collection with the “Omniscient Merlin,” a timepiece inspired by the legend of King Arthur’s trusted enchanter. Drawing on Arthurian lore and the mystical allure of Northern Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, the watch features a 45mm Pink Gold case and a captivating dial that reinterprets the hexagonal basalt formations of the
Causeway. Carefully hand-set with 56 blocks of materials including pink gold, basalt, Murano glass, and black glass, the dial evokes the dramatic landscape Merlin was said to have gazed upon, brought to life through meticulous craftsmanship and perspective-bending design.

Each of the twelve knights, micro-engraved and cast in Pink Gold, stands as an hour marker, symbolizing courage and adventure. The figures, standing on a hexagonal-patterned pathway of black PVD-treated Pink Gold, add dynamic motion and strength, their unique poses animated by individually sculpted details. Beneath the dial, the in-house automatic Monobalancier RD821 caliber powers the timepiece, meeting the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification standards and adorned with 14 types of hand-finishing, ensuring both beauty and performance.

The Omniscient Merlin watch, limited to only 28 pieces, continues Roger Dubuis’ legacy of blending mythological inspiration with high watchmaking. This exclusive edition includes a sword-inspired crown protector and a caseback inscribed with Merlin’s legendary call to his knights, “Around this table, the bravest knights will gather as equals.” With only 28 pieces available, this remarkable creation is designed
for collectors who appreciate a fusion of narrative, artisanal mastery, and the spirit of legendary adventure.

Hublot and renowned Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami continue their creative partnership with the release of the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow. This limited-edition timepiece, with only 20 pieces available, reimagines Murakami’s iconic smiling flower motif in a sapphire case adorned with 444 brilliantly colored gemstones. Each petal of the flower is set with a vibrant array of rubies, sapphires, amethysts, and more, showcasing Hublot’s expertise in gem-setting while encapsulating Murakami’s bold and playful artistic spirit.

At the heart of the watch lies Hublot’s first-ever central flying tourbillon, a groundbreaking mechanical feat powered by the HUB9015 manual-winding caliber with an impressive 120-hour power reserve. The timepiece’s central tourbillon is showcased beneath a domed sapphire crystal engraved with Murakami’s signature smiling face, while the transparent case reveals skeletonized components that seem to float, adding to the watch’s ethereal appeal. With its unique engineering and artistic design, the MP-15 blends the boundary-pushing aesthetics of contemporary art with the technical precision of haute horlogerie.

The MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow represents a culmination of Hublot and Murakami’s shared vision for innovation and creativity, with a playful yet sophisticated approach to luxury watchmaking. Complete with a transparent decorated rubber strap and a sapphire crystal buckle, this exceptional timepiece is a true collector’s item, available exclusively at Hublot boutiques worldwide.

Dubai Watch Week is hosting the 10th edition of its prestigious Horology Forum in Hong Kong from October 22-24, 2024, at Christie’s in The Henderson, Central. Known for fostering intellectual conversations within horology and related industries, the event features a series of panel discussions, masterclasses, and networking opportunities. Horology enthusiasts worldwide can also participate via livestream, as the event will be broadcast on Dubai Watch Week’s YouTube channel, providing global access to thought-provoking sessions on luxury watchmaking trends, the future of horology, and more.

This year’s Horology Forum, titled ‘HF.10,’ features a diverse lineup of industry experts and thought leaders from outside the horology world, offering fresh perspectives. Notable sessions include a discussion on the evolution of East Asian horology moderated by Carson Chan, a deep dive into luxury ownership by Mark Cho, and an innovative relay workshop on building a watch brand in 60 minutes led by Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution Magazine, just to name a few.

Through HF.10, Dubai Watch Week continues its mission of connecting the global horology community by offering engaging content and interactive experiences, both in-person and online, ensuring that the conversation on luxury timepieces remains accessible and relevant to enthusiasts worldwide.

Patek Philippe introduces the Cubitus collection, a striking reinterpretation of the elegant sporty style, defined by its unique square-shaped case with rounded corners. The collection makes its debut in three distinct versions: the Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases in platinum, the two-tone Cubitus in steel and rose gold, and the Cubitus in steel with an olive-green sunburst dial. Each timepiece exudes Patek Philippe’s signature blend of innovation and craftsmanship, with refined details such as horizontal relief embossing on the dials and seamless integration of materials.

TAG Heuer recently showcased its Haute Horlogerie collections in Dubai, highlighting 41 exceptional timepieces from its renowned Monaco, Carrera, and Plasma series. The exhibition celebrated the brand’s fusion of heritage and innovation, with 23 heritage models underscoring TAG Heuer’s storied past and 18 avant-garde pieces demonstrating its commitment to cutting-edge craftsmanship. Attendees had the exclusive opportunity to meet key figures from TAG Heuer’s Swiss headquarters, including Carole Kasapi, Julien Delcambre, and Laurent Kervyn, who offered insights into the meticulous craftsmanship and design behind each watch.

From the iconic Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph to the avant-garde Carrera Plasma Lab-Grown Diamonds, TAG Heuer continues to push the boundaries of design and performance. With its rich history dating back to 1860, TAG Heuer’s legacy in precision timekeeping and innovative designs remains unparalleled, solidifying its reputation as a leader in luxury watchmaking. The brand’s ties to the Middle East were also honored during the event, paying tribute to its lasting relationship with Saudi Arabia and the region’s growing appreciation for fine horology.