In the realm of watchmaking, a rich tapestry of tradition and innovation unfolds as artisans and engineers tirelessly work to push the boundaries of what’s possible. The world of horology has always been a harmonious blend of history and technology, but in recent years, a remarkable wave of innovation has swept through the industry, promising to redefine the future of timekeeping. From groundbreaking materials to cutting-edge complications, these innovations are not just pushing the boundaries but shattering them, setting the stage for a future where precision, beauty, and technology converge like never before.

MB&F HM Bulldog

A rounded, compact body of titanium, red gold or microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating coupled with a generous ration of sapphire crystal. Two prominent aluminium time-display “eyes”, rolling at anyone who dares look its way. A collar studded with projections that allow you to wind the mainspring or set the time. Stout but flexible “legs” that wrap firmly around your wrist. A massive jaw. And above all, a big heart beating steadily at 2.5Hz (18,000bph).

The manual-winding engine of HM10 Bulldog was designed and developed in-house, leveraging the best of MB&F’s technical expertise built up over the years; longtime members of the MB&F Tribe will recognise elements that hew closely to the horological lab’s best-loved creations. The large suspended balance that hovers just beneath the central dome of sapphire crystal was made possible by the various iterations of this mechanism in the Legacy Machine collection.

Despite its outsize personality — measuring 45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and with a maximum height of 24mm — HM10 Bulldog is surprisingly wearable. Its sprung strap attachment “legs” allow the body to fit closely around the wrist, with the calf-leather strap as robust as any well-made leash — fastened with either a folding buckle or Velcro system. HM10 Bulldog is assembled with highly distilled expertise in micro-mechanical engineering. Fitting the requisite elements of timekeeping and time display within such a limited three-dimensional volume, while maintaining top levels of artistry and finish, requires careful balance between technical and aesthetic factors.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in five versions:

• Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes
• RT version: 18K red gold and titanium case with black hour and minute domes
• ‘Dark Bulldog’ versions: case in microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating with black, blue or red hour and minute domes. Limited editions of 8 pieces each.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier

As an innovator who ignites new pathways of expression and craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis has unleashed the full potential of colourful luminescence with the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier- limited to only 28 pieces. The Blacklight collection has already cemented an iconic reputation for its mastery of radiant aesthetics and excelled performance. Powered by the RD720SQ calibre, and glowing with artistic originality, this is a watch that demands attention.

Setting this watch apart with true innovation are the powerfully visible spinels that encircle the bezel and flange and take the name of Spin-StonesTM. This world premiere stone-cut is patent pending, and yet again demonstrates the Maison’s ability to exploit aesthetic design in its most spectacular form.

Balancing aesthetics and performance, the automatic RD720SQ calibre has an increased power reserve of 72 hours and an optimized micro-rotor to minimize the vibrations. To further improve stability, the balance wheel inertia has been doubled – making the watch less sensitive to shocks. In a quest for greater efficiency and energy transmission, even the shape of the escapement has been enhanced, paired with diamond-coated silicon pallet-stones and a new lube. This display of Roger Dubuis’ obsessive engineering is brought together with hand-finished quality and meticulous care – all resulting in the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures of fine watchmaking.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic – Neon Yellow Saxem

The yellow is a powerful, bright neon colour which almost seems to glow from the inside, like a fluorescent material. An intense fluorescent shade of acid yellow, citrus-like in its quality. To meet this highly technical challenge, Hublot had to search for a solution in space technology. In fact, SAXEM was developed in the field of satellite technology. A unique material that had also been used in 2019 for the Big Bang MP-11.

What is SAXEM? It stands for “Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral”. It is an alloy of aluminium oxide, the basic component of sapphire, with rare earth elements like thulium and holmium as well as chromium. The resulting material is ultra-resistant and endowed with a brilliance that is greater than that of sapphire.

In terms of movement, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is powered by the HUB6035 self-winding Manufacture calibre. Hublot has chosen the most difficult technical route, self- winding using a micro-rotor, the only way to avoid concealing the back of the movement as a conventional rotor would have done. On top of that, the Manufacture has chosen to skeletonise the entire calibre. This heart is the tourbillon, which appears to be suspended in mid-air. Positioned at 6 o’clock, it offers the technical and hypnotic spectacle of a high-precision Haute Horlogerie piece, designed as a 21st century interpretation: modern, disruptive, dazzling.

The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is limited to 50 pieces.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Piaget is keeping the flame of ultra-thin watchmaking very much alive. More than just a speciality, it is a state of mind, a culture, an identity that began with watch movements and has spread to all of Piaget’s designs over almost 150 years. For Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023, the Maison, which laid the aesthetic and technical foundations for ultra-thin watches, launched new version of a mechanical watch that is an astonishing 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept.

An exceptional feat, even at 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept is waterproof to a depth of 20 metres and equipped with a traditional crown. Its first working prototype took seven years to develop; two more were required for it to meet Piaget’s rigorous reliability standards. Its case is made from a special torsion-resistant cobalt alloy, which makes it 25% thinner than precious metal cases.

A few weeks ago, I was chatting with a friend on WhatsApp. We were catching up after ages. Originally from India, he now calls Dubai his home. He knows I love watches and writing about them. He goes ‘I just bought a watch.’ He knew I would ask ‘which one’ and ‘please share a pic’ and was waiting for me to say it. We go back a long way, having attended boarding school in Singapore during the mid-nineties. Aspects of our behavior are predictable to each other. What followed was a picture of a beautiful Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in Rose Gold. I was impressed, and not surprised, as my friend is a hugely successful technology entrepreneur, having founded a handful of technology ventures straddling India and the US, and then selling them for millions of dollars.

He shared how the boutique insisted he must build a relationship by buying another model or two, engage with them on their social media, and simply wait indefinitely. Aspects that are typical of luxury and haute-horology watch brands, and those that collectors take for granted. Frustrated, he went ahead and bought his desired watch on a well-known preowned platform. This made me realize that – like my friend – there is an entire world of potential watch customers. Not all as successful and wealthy as him – but those who have little idea about watches and how the world of luxury watch-retail works.

Luxury products are as much about the ‘community’ they create as they are about ‘physical products’ themselves. I have experienced this myself as a boutique customer of a Holy Trinity watch brand. The themed events, cocktails and dinners, opportunity to socialize, the thoughtful gifts (often part of the theme of the event), all serve to create an ecosystem of networking, lifelong friendships, and a closer relationship with these brands. This community aspect keeps the halo and prestige of these brands alive. The creation of such a community cements stronger bonds between brands and collectors. Those passionate about luxury products are more likely to seek such a community. Often, the community experience is as or more important than the products themselves. For passionate collectors, the physical product is a means to membership in a community or exclusive club which offers an enriching experience. In the case of watches, being a brand’s boutique customer or through an authorized dealer (AD), enables the collector to get priority access to new models and limited editions, often before they are revealed to a wider public.

For many, the boutique or AD experience, and the community they provide is not so important. Certainly not for my friend. He is not a watch-guy or WIS (Watch Idiot Savant). And there are many others like him. People who want to buy a watch, who can afford them, are not so passionate about horology and uninterested in being part of such a community. My friend certainly views watches as status symbols but was not interested in making the effort required to become a boutique or AD customer. His experience at the boutique left me thinking. If any brand or AD knows him and his accomplishments the way I do, they would let him have any watch he wants, even the ones one must qualify and wait years for. This is just my (blind) bias towards my friend. But the way the industry works, his accomplishments mean little in the ‘ladder’ one must ‘climb’ to qualify to purchase certain pieces. Not everyone is as accomplished as my friend, yet there are many who have the means and can afford them.

What does all this mean?

• For the likes of my friend or the Non-WIS Watch-Collectors.
• For Brands and Authorized Dealers.

A)
My friend values time and money. He was not able to purchase his desired watch from a boutique, so he found another way. He is happy with his ownership of it. He enjoys wearing it. In his social circle, it represents a well-earned status symbol. The ‘product’ is the same; the only thing missing is the ‘community’ experience. To illustrate my point, let us use an example from the world of supercars. A gentleman who loves Ferrari purchases his desired model preowned, as he is not interested in the lengthy waitlist of a Ferrari authorized dealer. While driving on the Italian Countryside or German Autobahns, it is still a Ferrari. Depending on the model, it is still a V-8 or V-12 rumbling away behind his ears or in front of him, put together by the magicians at Maranello. What is missing is that this gentleman – though loving the ‘product experience,’ exactly as Enzo Ferrari intended – will not get to enjoy the ‘brand and dealer experience,’ such as invites to dealers where they network with other customers and enjoy champagne and hors d’oeuvre, while models remove the covers of the new launch, or the opportunity to meet the Ferrari F-1 Team at HQ in Maranello. It is the same for my friend. He gets to enjoy everything there is about his new watch. He just does not get to enjoy the brand or AD experience, and the benefits that come with it.

B)
For Brands and AD’s, they obtain customers indirectly. These are customers who carry the heritage, prestige, other aspects of their respective brands, without having a direct relationship with them. Brands and AD’s must realize that while these customers did not purchase the ‘official’ way, they nevertheless are on their wrists now and in official possession of the watches. The brands and AD’s have an obligation to authenticate (if the brand provides this service, as it varies) and service these watches when required. While brands and AD’s may turn a blind eye, they do know that some of their official customers flip their watches on the secondary market. As much as they try to control and prevent this, it seldom happens as intended. For the brands and AD’s, customers such as my friend are a blessing, because they inadvertently function as their brand ambassadors and marketeers, at minimal effort and cost for them. I am sure most of my friend’s social circle are not passionate collectors, but they will display curiosity when they see his watch. A small percentage of them might get hooked on horology. Brands and ADs must not ignore such customers and must find a way to engage with them.

A prolific collector friend of mine from India – Farhad – had this to say about such collectors: ‘We have to understand that as enthusiasts and collectors we actually represent a very very tiny percentage of global sales. Most buyers are one and done. And they are least bothered about pricing and value retention. They’ll wear the watch for the next 10-15 years.’ This perfectly sums up the Non-WIS Watch Collectors.

Well-known Preowned Platforms (A Collected Man, Chrono24, WatchBox, and Wristcheck) Auction Houses (Phillips and its venture Phillips Perpetual) and Publications (Hodinkee and Revolution) are legitimate alternatives for purchasing watches. They are much more than a ‘used-car showroom.’

From having a presence of global boutiques and hosting events, churning out excellent and expert editorial and social-media content, to being authorized dealers of certain brands, to having ownership in brands, and frequently having collaborations with brands (whether mainstream, independents, or microbrands) for limited edition watches, these platforms have become horological powerhouses on their own. Several of my collector friends have begun purchasing from them. They also cater to the needs and demands of Millennials and Gen Z, many of whom (perhaps) care less about purchasing ‘officially’ from the brands and AD.

While the experience of being a boutique or AD customer has its charm, the industry cannot ignore the likes of my friend and these alternative platforms. Their growing importance must not be underestimated. Purchasing from them is often as enriching an experience as buying from a brands boutique or AD, and one is welcomed into their world and community. And the customer benefits from the same peace of mind that comes from a brand’s boutique and AD. It is a win-win for the industry, for both the brands and the customers. Such platforms have made watches more accessible to a wider and more global audience and have truly democratized the industry.

Van Cleef & Arpels unveils a new patrimonial exhibition at its iconic Middle East boutique Les Salons Dubai Opera, on display from September 15 to November 22, 2023. “Van Cleef & Arpels, Precious Jewels Telling Time” features a selection of creations and archival documents ranging from the Art Deco period up until the 1970s. This selection presents how Van Cleef & Arpels created throughout the decades, jewels that tell time following a seamless identity and coherent style.

An early example of the Maison’s watchmaking tradition is the Skeleton pocket watch dating from around 1925 is on display as well as a Cadenas watch from 1944. First launched in 1935, this model embodies the marriage of elegance and functionality so dear to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Paying tribute to one of the Maison’s most important sources of inspiration – couture –, the Cord secret watch from 1949 attests to the importance of “Cord” motif in the 1940s, as testified by earrings and necklaces also showcased in the exhibition. In addition, table clocks in ornamental stones dating from the 1960s and the Bark pendant watch from the 1970s are showcased for the first time along jewelry and High Jewelry pieces.

The 27 watches, table clocks and precious objects highlight the Maison’s distinctive approach to give the time, in anticipation of “A journey through the Poetry of Time”, taking place during Dubai Watch Week 2023 (November 16 to 20).

In the world of horology, where precision meets craftsmanship, there exists a realm reserved for the truly exceptional. Beyond the ordinary, beyond the attainable, lie timepieces that defy convention and redefine luxury. In this feature, we highlight exclusive watches that retail for over USD 1 million. These horological masterpieces are not merely instruments to measure time; they are expressions of artistry, innovation, and heritage, each bearing a price tag that mirrors their unparalleled rarity and beauty.

Bulgari Giardino Marino Grande – USD 2,979,000

Inspired by Bulgari’s Mediterranean roots, the Giardino Marino Grande High Jewellery Secret Watch in 18 kt rose and white gold is an ode to the vibrant marine life and the rich nature of Southern Italy. Full of dynamism and movement, the flexible timepiece is made of gold starfish, anemones, corals and shells set with diamonds, emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, Paraiba, green and pink tourmalines, tanzanites, mandarin garnets, rubellites, peridots and rock crystals. Powered by the in-house micro-calibre Piccolissimo, one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, the watch hides a precious treasure: two detachable elements that can be worn as earrings. With over a year and a half in development and 3,850 hours of skilled work, this stunning creation displaying Bulgari’s unparalleled jewellery mastery is truly one-of-a-kind.
Giardino Marino Grande High Jewellery Secret Watch with Piccolissimo mechanical manufacture micro-movement, manual winding (2.5 mm thick), 30-hour power reserve and 21’600 Vph (3Hz) frequency, 18 kt rose and white gold case and bracelet set with diamonds, emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, tanzanites, green and pink tourmalines, mandarin garnets, rubellites, peridots and rock crystals, and snow-set diamond dial. Detachable elements to be worn as earrings.

Piaget Limelight Aura High Jewelry – USD 1,630,000

Taking center stage in the stunning diamond high jewelry category, the Limelight Aura High Jewelry watch features a case in rhodium finish 18K white gold set with 26 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 8.8 ct) and 14 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct). The exquisite dial is set with 52 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 4.8 cts) and the bracelet in rhodium finish 18K white gold set with 210 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 44.6 cts). The Limelight Aura High Jewelry watch features Manufacture 430P ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement.

Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Black Spinel and Rose Gold – Over USD 1,000,000

Mystery watches, timepieces where the time indications seem to be floating over the dial, are part of the grand history of watchmaking, going back more than 100 years. It should come as no surprise high watchmaking and diamond jewelry house Jacob & Co. has brought the mystery back with a contemporary high watchmaking and high jewelry twist.

The Mystery Tourbillon combines high watchmaking, a world first with two linked central, back-to-back triple axis tourbillons, with high jewelry, as the case is invisibly set with baguette hexagonal black spinel and the dial is set with hexagonal, “overlapping” black spinel. The sophisticated and ground-breaking Mystery was more than one year in development.

In an era where sustainability is not merely a buzzword but an imperative for conscious consumers, the world of luxury watches is taking a remarkable stride towards a greener and more responsible future. Their commitment to ethical sourcing, coupled with innovative initiatives such as the use of lab-grown diamonds, recycled gold, and transparent supply chains, exemplifies their dedication to both preserving the planet’s resources and elevating the standards of luxury craftsmanship. In this journey towards horological excellence, these brands are not just telling time; they are also telling a story of environmental stewardship and responsibility.

Breitling Navitimer 36 & 32

The 36-mm Navitimer features the beaded bezel and iconic circular slide rule (used by pilots as an analog calculator) that give the Navitimer its unmistakable appearance. But here it comes in a trio of chic metallic dial colors (mint green, silver, and anthracite) with baton indexes, or with a white mother-of-pearl dial set with round-cut “better diamonds”.

Part of Breitling’s mission to do better, these diamonds are lab-grown and traceable to accredited producers who have achieved the SCS-007 Sustainability Rated Diamonds Standard. Similarly, the full-gold version and gold bezel on the duo-tone are crafted in “better gold”, traceable to artisanal and small-scale mines that meet the Swiss Better Gold Association’s criteria for social and environmental impact.

All watches in the line that feature better gold, better diamonds, or both, carry the Origins label, a marker of their precious materials’ product integrity. The Navitimer 36 is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17, providing three-hand time and automatic winding.

This dazzling new interpretation of the classic aviation watch forgoes the slide rule in favor of a simplified dial design suited to its slim diameter. Where this small watch packs a big punch is in its mother-of-pearl dials in powdery pink and light-blue—a first for Breitling—along with classic white. As with the larger 36, the 32 features better diamonds across the line as well as better gold on the full-gold version and on the bezel of the duo-tone. They all carry the Origins label.

The power behind this watch comes from the Breitling Caliber 77, a supremely precise SuperQuartzTM movement that, as with all of Breitling’s quartz calibers, has the added distinction of being COSC-certified. It also features a 50-meter (5-bar) water resistance, impressive for a watch this size.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin

The Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin, the result of the partnership between Hublot and Nespresso, shares the values of innovation, excellence and sustainability, which are at the core of both brands. This is a world first: Hublot’s and Nespresso’s pioneering spirit has transformed used coffee grounds from the capsules into watch straps. The recycled aluminium fused with the aluminium capsules become the case, the bezel, the crown and the pusher.

This is an unprecedented collaboration, signaled by Nespresso’s iconic “N” engraved on the crown, and its iconic colour – a nod to the Master Origins Peru Organic capsule. The density of the two materials is expertly blended to ensure the durability of the product. The Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin’s 42-mm case is crafted in recycled aluminium, of which 28% comes from Nespresso coffee capsules, anodised in vibrant green, then satin finished and polished.

For the fabric strap, Hublot has collaborated with SingTex, one of Nespresso’s partners who was already using recycled coffee grounds to produce a fabric called Scafé. This 100% recycled fabric (composed of 5% coffee grounds and 95% recycled polyester) is being used for the first time to make a watch strap. A subtle balance, to ensure the durability of the bracelet, which also sees the rubber strap fusing 4.1% coffee grounds, 8.2% recycled white rubber and the usual Hublot formula.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

With Alpine Eagle, Chopard has created a contemporary sporty-chic collection featuring a pure design paired with a sophisticated mechanism. Following a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency calibre and a flying tourbillon, Alpine Eagle is extending its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. Measuring just 3.30 mm thick, the L.U.C 96.40-L movement is just one of the feats achieved by the watchmaking artisans of Chopard Manufacture. Its advanced features enable the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy, while guaranteeing 65 hours of power reserve thanks to Chopard Twin technology. The Alpine Eagle 41 XPS with its 41 mm-diameter case and integrated bracelet is entirely crafted in the Maison’s workshops from Lucent Steel™: an exclusive, ultra-resistant and remarkably shiny alloy made from 80% recycled materials. Its optimal proportions and textured “Monte Rosa Pink” dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and distinction; while its finishes, reflecting the highest Haute Horlogerie standards, have earned it recognition by the coveted Poinçon de Genève.

Just as Oppenheimer’s story is a testament to the intersection of history, science, and ethics, these five exceptional timepieces embody a similar blend of precision, innovation, and timeless elegance. These horological masterpieces offer wearers the opportunity to carry a piece of history on their wrists, showcasing the enduring connection between luxury watches and the enduring narratives of humanity’s progress.

MB&F Horological Machine No. 9 ‘Sapphire Vision’

The HM9-SV features an outer hull of sapphire crystal and precious metal, curved and bubbled and precisely fitted together in three parts, is sealed with a proprietary combination of patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech compound bonding process. Two fully independent cantilevered balances channel data into a differential that turns two heartbeats into one coherent time-pulse. Ultra-precise conical gears efficiently turn the engine’s energy and information current through a 90° angle to feed the time display on a sapphire crystal dial, marked with Super-LumiNova.

On the reverse, co-axial beneath each of the balances are propellers: twin turbines that spin freely as an element of pure visual interest, waiting for someone to begin a new type of exploration. The laws of fluid dynamics remain dominant in its design, although the hydro-governed objectives allow HM9-SV to take a more lenient approach to the sharp inward angles and parabolic curves of the previous Flow versions. A traditional balance frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000vph) may seem curiously anachronistic in a modern timekeeper, but the sensitivity to shock associated with a lower beat rate is compensated for by having two balances instead of one. To further reduce sensitivity to shocks, the HM9-SV editions feature a new shock-absorbing system: helicoidal springs placed between the movement and the case. The springs are crafted by laser from a solid tube of polished stainless steel, offering excellent elasticity and limited lateral displacement.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillion Carbon

This limited edition model, with only 50 pieces issued, fuses traditional Fine Watchmaking with Hublot’s cutting-edge spirit. The watch comprises two genuine complications: the tourbillon and the micro-rotor. Hublot has designed the tourbillion to be skeletonized and suspended, integrated within a bottom plate doted with transparent sapphire bridges The strap alone also merits being seen as a complication—especially considering its construction. It is a featherweight 26 grams, making it one of the lightest straps available today and it is supremely comfortable thanks to a perfect integration with the case. Bringing together the interwoven nature of carbon fibre and Texalium with the HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre, Hublot created an exclusive openwork back plate for this piece. It allows light to penetrate to the heart of the movement, strengthening the cohesion between aesthetics and technique, while also recalling the interlaced nature of the materials and the exclusivity of the piece—the only one in the world with a monobloc component of this kind.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon

Tradition and contemporary aesthetics: the Traditionnelle Tourbillon watch embodies a perfectly balanced expression of this alliance. Epitomising horological expertise with its tourbillon regulator integrated within the ultra-thin Calibre 2160/1, it opts for a sunburst deep green dial beautifully framed by a 950 platinum case.

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon watch appearing in a 41 mm-diameter platinum case features a majestic sunburst green dial. This original colour obtained by galvanic treatment endows the model with depth and intensity, enlivening the gleaming whiteness of the noble metal with brightly shimmering reflections. The intrinsic elegance of this new Traditionnelle Tourbillon also stems from the slenderness of the case, itself enabled by ultra-thin self-winding in-house Calibre 2160/1 measuring only 5.65 mm thick. To clearly understand how it operates, this regulator has been set to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz).

Parmigiani Fleurier TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante

The TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante’s birth was guided by the idea of reinterpreting one of the most common watchmaking functions while helping it evolve to become an absolute innovation. The basic premise: to perform the function usually operated by the graduated bezel on a diver’s watch via the movement itself. The result is user friendliness, excellent legibility and apparent simplicity right the way through to activating the function. While TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante enables a distinction between local and home time in one-hour increments, this new development of the function now serves to display the minutes in five and one-minute increments respectively.

The TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante is graced with pure and essential proportions featuring sophisticated aesthetic codes and finishes. A complication that is intuitive, efficient and extremely simple to use, in harmony with the spirit that guides the brand.

Chopard L.U.C. 1860

In a creative gesture imbued with the innate elegance of the L.U.C collection, Chopard Manufacture draws inspiration from the first timepiece in the collection, presented in 1997, by combining the sophistication of a guilloché dial in salmon-coloured solid gold, a 36.5 mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive Lucent Steel™ alloy, as well as a finely crafted chronometer-certified movement. L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L is wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels based on Chopard Twin technology. At the heart of the 36.50 mm Lucent Steel™ case nestles an elegant two-tone dial. Made of solid gold, it features a subtle salmon hue obtained by galvanic treatment and contrasting with the white gold touches of the chevron hour-markers. The anthracite grey grained calfskin leather strap, with its tone-on-tone stitching, complements the refined colours and textures skilfully orchestrated by the workshops.

The L.U.C 1860 timepiece is part of a continuing story that began more than a quarter of a century ago when, under Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s leadership, Chopard established the L.U.C collection, devoted to the art and traditions of Haute Horlogerie.

Inspired by Watches & Wonders 2023, a few months ago I wrote about three Timeless Horological Designs: The Cartier Santos, Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse. In this edition of Timeless Horological Designs, I present three more timepieces – one of that goes back decades and is among the most iconic in horology. The other two are relatively recent, and yet the strength of their design and timelessness has left a significant mark on horology.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1

“The LANGE 1 is the epitome of an A. Lange & Sohne watch. It embodies the knowledge and skills of an entire watchmaking dynasty that was established in Dresden in the early 19th century.”

The Lange 1 was among the original four models, launched on October 25, 1994, in Dresden, Germany, to mark the rebirth of A. Lange & Sohne (Lange). Lange is the legendary East-German watchmaker, located in Glasshutte, in Saxony, Germany. The Saxonia, Tourbillon “Pour le Merite” and Arkade ladies’ timepiece were the other three models. The rebirth of Lange with the launch of these four spectacular models gave the Swiss a lot to worry about. Now they had a genuine competitor in Germany. Haute-Horology was not solely the realm of the Swiss anymore.

The Lange 1 became an instant sensation. Its asymmetrical dial-layout placed the time sub-dial centre left, outsize-date window top right and seconds sub-dial bottom right, with power-reserve indicator far right. It was designed according to the proportions of the Golden Ratio, expressed as 1 / 1.6181, discovered by ancient Greek mathematicians, and responsible for notable works of art and architecture. The outsize date, a reference to the Five-Minute Clock at the Semper Opera House in Dresden, became an iconic feature. The Lange 1 became the ‘face’ of the new Lange.

Over the years, Lange broadened the Lange 1 collection. The Lange 1 design became ideal for introducing complications and grand complications. Lange launched models such as the Moonphase, Time Zone, Tourbillon, and Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. They added additional case sizes and experimented with different dial-finishes, such as Lumen and Guilloche, to further enhance the range. Those desiring a larger case diameter could opt for the Grand Lange 1 or Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, and ladies desiring a guilloche dial could choose from the Little Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 Moon Phase pieces. There have been limited editions over the years, such as the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst.

With few exceptions, the Lange 1 range is powered mostly by their in-house manual-winding calibres. Typical of Lange, each timepiece has a unique calibre, notable for Lange’s exemplary finishing and the signature hand-engraved balance cock. Some models have been discontinued, such as the Lange 1 Daymatic, while others have been upgraded to second-generation models, such as the Lange 1, Lange 1 Moonphase, Grand Lange 1 and Lange 1 Time Zone. The current range includes about nine models, crafted in precious metals. Lange continues to find ways to enhance and surprise with the Lange 1 collection.

Whether a collector chooses the basic Lange 1 or the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, they are acquiring one of the most Iconic timepiece-designs of all time, powered by calibres that are among the finest in horology. A timepiece family that is legendary, prestigious, and timeless, the Lange 1 line is one that will stand the test of time decades later.

Rolex Datejust

“This is the pinnacle of watchmaking science. It encapsulates every discovery made to date.” – Hans Wilsdorf, 1945.

The Rolex Datejust was launched in 1945. It holds the distinction of being the first automatic or self-winding wristwatch, while also being waterproof, a chronometer, and displaying the date at 3’o clock on the dial. In 1953, Rolex enhanced the design by introducing the Cyclops lens, thereby magnifying the date display. (Over the decades, the patented Cyclops lens has become one of the most iconic Rolex features, visible on most Rolex watches which have a date.)

Over time, Rolex gradually broadened and enhanced the Datejust family to suit different tastes and preferences, for both male and female clients. These include different case sizes, case metals, dial materials and designs, bejewelled pieces, to name a few. Proprietary Rolex innovations such as Rolesor (combination of gold with stainless steel), Everose Gold, Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, Paramagnetic Blue Parachrom hairspring, are found across the range.

The current range is spread out across a multitude of combinations:
Case Sizes: 31mm, 36mm, 41mm.
Materials: Oystersteel, White Rolesor, Yellow Rolesor, Everose Rolesor, Yellow Gold, White Gold, Everose Gold.
Bezel: Smooth, Fluted, Domed, Domed-Diamond Set, Diamond Set.
Bracelet: Oyster, Jubilee, President.
Dials: Numerous options ranging from assorted colours and patterns, set with diamonds, mother-of-pearl set with diamonds, to name a few.
Movements:
The 31mm range is powered by in-house self-winding calibre 2236, which features the Syloxi hairspring in silicon with patented geometry and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
The 36mm and 41mm range are powered by in-house self-winding calibre 3235, which features the Chronergy escapement, Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. Fourteen patents have been filed for calibre 3235.

Both calibres are certified by the COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres).

The Datejust, a simple time-only with date timepiece, benefits from the best of Rolex R&D and innovation at any given point in time, such as materials, case sizes, bracelets, dials (including colours, patterns and fonts), precious stones and movement innovations. Everything about a Rolex timepiece is brilliantly thought through. The Datejust is an accurate, legible, practical, versatile timepiece, which lends itself to both active and formal lifestyles. There is a Datejust for almost every aesthetic preference and budget. The Rolex configurator on their website allows one to explore the multitude of options.

Perfect as a graduation present, for instance, it also makes a superb addition for the mature seasoned collector. One of Rolex’s strongest hallmarks is its low-cost of ownership; the timepiece will not require servicing for a long time. A Datejust can hold its own in a sea of grand-complications crafted by haute-horology brands. If one desires only one timepiece for the rest of their life, the Datejust makes an incredibly compelling case for itself.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle

“The Traditionnelle collection is the supreme expression of the most demanding Geneva Haute Horlogerie traditions inherited from the 18th century.”

Founded in Geneva, Switzerland in 1755, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has created some of the most beautiful and complicated timepieces in history. The Traditionnelle family was launched in 2007 as part of the Patrimony family and named ‘Patrimony Traditionnelle’. The design of the Traditionnelle was complimentary to the minimalistic and delicate design of Patrimony. A few of the design hallmarks include a railroad-style minutes track surrounding the dial, dauphine hands (polished on one side), and baton-style hour markers.

The current Traditionnelle family includes about twenty-six models, crafted in precious metals, to suit different tastes and preferences. Except for one Quartz calibre, which powers a small model within what VC designates as its collection for ladies/female clients, most others have a range of VC’s in-house manual-winding and automatic calibres, impeccably finished, and adorned by the Hallmark of Geneva.

Its aesthetic allows VC to introduce a broad repertoire of timepieces, ranging from classical dress timepieces, jewellery timepieces, complications and grand complications. Its design codes also allow VC to experiment a great deal – from creating classical designs adorned with VC’s legendary ‘traditional’ open-working to more ‘futuristic’ and ‘edgy’ open-face treatments. During 2013-2014, VC separated the Traditionnelle family from the Patrimony, finally giving it its own space and identity.

Some of these models include:

Traditionnelle Moonphase

a gorgeous ladies’ timepiece, 36mm case diameter, adorned with diamonds on the bezel and lugs, mother-of-pearl dial, displaying hours, minutes, moon phase, power-reserve and centre-seconds. The same model is available with a diamond-studded dial, albeit slightly larger at 37.5mm case diameter.

Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

a simple timepiece, 38mm case diameter, displaying the hours, minutes, and centre seconds, and now a modern-day icon.

Traditionnelle Complete Calendar

a traditional calendar timepiece (not annual or perpetual), 41mm case diameter, displaying hours, minutes, moon phase, date (via pointer around the dial), and day of the week and month in individual apertures. This classical model is also available as an open face version named Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

a grand complication, 41mm case diameter, displaying the hours and minutes, tourbillon, and retrograde date function, with openface treatment. It is inevitable VC will introduce this in its classical dial avatar soon.

The Traditionnelle canvas allows VC to introduce breakthrough horological innovations, such as the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar. This masterpiece is a 42mm case size grand complication that allows the wearer to switch from 5 Hz (Active mode) to 1.2 Hz (Standby mode), when not wearing the timepiece. This enables the power-reserve to be extended, so one does not have to reset the perpetual calendar when the timepiece has been off the wrist for a number of days.

Since its launch in 2007, the Traditionnelle family has become among the most gorgeous and versatile timepiece families in the world. Whether one chooses a simple time-only piece, an open-face complication or a grand-complication, there is a Traditionnelle for most tastes, preferences, and various budgets. Perfect for the collector who desires his or her first haute-horology timepiece from the Holy Trinity, the Traditionnelle is just as well suited for the seasoned collector who desires a grand complication. The Traditionnelle family is timeless and represents the best of haute horology.