JEWELRY

The Art of Stacking

5 Jewelry collections setting the trend
By Mariam Yasin

A delightful trend has taken center stage – the art of stacking. Jewelry brands, renowned for their craftsmanship and design, enthusiastically embrace the concept of stackable jewelry in their collections. This trend allows individuals to become their own jewelry designers, mixing and matching pieces to curate a unique and personalized look. From dainty rings that dance delicately on fingers to layered necklaces that tell a story of style, the possibilities are as endless as one’s imagination.

Cartier – Clash de Cartier


Clash de Cartier is a collection that plays with duality and the meeting of worlds, from classic to punk, edgy to soft and feminine to masculine – balancing clean design with excess of energy and a rebellious spirit. Clash de Cartier shakes up the Maison’s aesthetic heritage of studs, beads and clous carrés.

This collection takes a swipe at protocol, tradition and liberty. A clash of attitudes. In volumes and reliefs, circles and squares, the collection honors the Maison’s penchant for geometry which dates back to the 1930s. Crafted in 4N rose gold, white gold, the rings, bracelets, earrings and necklaces of the Clash de Cartier collection are identified by their bold design and innate rebellious spirit.

Tiffany & Co. – Tiffany Lock


Inspired by an archival padlock from 1883, a design signature of the House for over a century, Tiffany Lock is an unparalleled expression of design and craftsmanship at the brand, paying homage to the jeweler’s illustrious heritage. The latest iterations celebrate the personal connections that we share and the infinite power of love.

“To me, love is an infinite source of creativity.” said Nancy Ajram, House Ambassador of Tiffany & Co. “Tiffany Lock represents the power inherent in love; the significance of unbreakable bonds—the connections that don’t falter with time.”

Designed for all genders, the collection introduces new colorways of earrings, pendants, rings and a bracelet to the coveted diamond and gold collection. Distinguished by sleek silhouettes and adorned with Tiffany’s legendary diamonds, the offerings are available in 18k white, yellow and rose gold with full pavé diamonds, half pave diamonds or an all-metal way.

Boucheron – Quarte Double White Edition


Urban and graphic, the Quatre collection draws on the Maison’s heritage to capture its essence – a contemporary Boucheron signature. Considered as an icon, a symbol of strength and protection with its weight in gold is the biggest of the Place Vendôme rings.

The Maison presents the Quatre Double White Edition collection, adorning all the codes of its icon in white. Grosgrain and Double Godron are sculpted in white gold, while the Clou de Paris in pristine Hyceram sits alongside the line of diamonds. Rings, hoop earrings, necklaces and, the collection’s flagship piece, a daring piece of hair jewellery, Quatre Double White Edition combines monochrome strength with style, like a blank page held out to those who wear it.

Chopard – Happy Hearts Pink Opal


Since its launch in 2009, the Happy Hearts collection – combining the Maison’s iconic dancing diamonds with the heart motif so dear to Caroline Scheufele – has established itself as a jewelry icon. Modern jewelry that is easy to wear solo or stacked, to which the latest addition is a dainty, throbbing pink opal heart in a complete set comprising a pendant necklace, a bracelet, a ring and a pair of earrings.

This new addition to the Happy Hearts collection features pink opal. In addition to its soft and delicate colour, pink opal – mainly found in the Peruvian Andes – also enjoys a fine symbolic reputation. Regarded as a heart chakra stone in traditional Indian medicine, it is said to have soothing properties on emotional wounds, procuring a feeling of peace and serenity. It is also thought to stimulate the imagination and creativity, as well as to encourage open-mindedness and self-acceptance. These powerful emblems naturally resonate with the Happy Hearts talismans, undoubtedly endowing the big-hearted women they adorn with some of their magic.

Pomellato – Together


Simple yet deeply symbolic, the Pomellato Together collection eloquently expresses the enigma of love in its many forms. The jewels capture the connections that bind us together, whether it is as lovers, friends, through sisterhood or family ties or any union between human beings who cherish one another. Pomellato Together is a range of rings and bracelets that express the beauty and complexity of human bonds with the simplest of Milanese elegance.

The jewels are composed of double bands of smooth gold and embellished with diamonds and gemstones, united by a link. These two perfect forms are forever united to create a greater whole as ribbons of gold meet in an embrace, entirely confident in the strength of their togetherness, even when far apart. The rings can be worn either revealing or concealing the link and the simple lines are gender-fluid and their universal appeal is instantly evident.

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LIFESTYLE

Tiffany & Co. Blue Box Café

The iconic landmark opens in Dubai
By Mariam Yasin

Tiffany & Co. announces the opening of the first Blue Box Café in the Middle East, a testament to the House’s authority as the premier luxury lifestyle jeweler. Nestled away in Dubai Mall’s Grand Atrium, this gem shares the impressive, bejeweled façade of the Tiffany & Co. Dubai Flagship store.

The space boasts an interior that mirrors the atmosphere of the Blue Box Café located within The Landmark, Tiffany & Co.’s iconic Fifth Avenue store. The 41-seat dining area is paved with a unique concrete tile floor adorned with playful multicolor accents designed by Peter Marino. A centerpiece resembling a chandelier suspends Tiffany Blue® boxes above bespoke designed furniture, from cast glass tables to Tiffany blue striped chairs with custom Tiffany & Co. monograms. Plate wall art and “What Matters” painting from Richard Prince’s “Tiffany” series are juxtaposed with fabric-clad accent walls in custom-colored Tiffany Blue® hues, further enhancing the décor.

The Blue Box Café’s seasonal cuisine takes a French-inspired approach to New York classics. Created in partnership with RIKAS Hospitality Group and inspired by Tiffany & Co.’s New York heritage, the menu offers three signature culinary experiences for elevated daytime dining: the famously chic Breakfast at Tiffany’s, an enchanting Afternoon Tea at Tiffany’s, and luxuriously casual all-day dining with a delicate French touch.

All dishes are presented on Tiffany T True dinnerware in Tiffany Blue®. Inspired by the jewelry collection of the same name, the Tiffany T True home collection is marked by the sleek T motif – a signature House code. Crafted from Limoges porcelain, each piece is adorned with a geometric interpretation of the Tiffany T True motif hand painted in gold on the rims. From freshly baked croissants and viennoiseries to the iconic “Café Tiffany” Black Angus Tenderloin, guests can indulge in a truly unique Tiffany gastronomic experience.

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JEWELRY

Inspired by Nature

Jewelry of captivating beauty
By Mariam Yasin

Nature has been an eternal muse for artists and artisans, and in the realm of high jewelry, its influence has transcended centuries with unwavering grace. From the enchanting intricacies of flora to the captivating beauty of fauna, jewelry maisons have continuously drawn inspiration from the natural world. Even in today’s era of innovation and technology, the tradition of creating exquisite jewelry pieces by hand, using the finest materials like gold and precious gemstones, endures.

Tiffany & Co. – Out of the Blue


Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue celebrates Jean Schlumberger’s fascination with the ocean and its whimsical creatures. The legendary Tiffany & Co. designer created a multitude of designs inspired by marine life—masterworks that explored both mimesis and abstraction. Capturing the essence of Schlumberger’s creations, Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue transforms his anthology of aquatic jewels into a mesmerizing high jewelry collection for the first time.

The aesthetic and story behind famed Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. designs, such as the Royal Fish brooch or La Méduse brooch, is retold through a new lens. With exceedingly rare gemstones set in unexpected combinations alongside legendary diamonds, the undersea narrative that Jean Schlumberger dreamt up over half a century ago is retold again in new high jewelry creations.

Boucheron – Animals


Hedgehog, panda, cat, cicada, doe… The extraordinary story of the Boucheron bestiary began at its workshops in 1866. Their savoir-faire chisels, polishes and paves with such precision that each animal becomes a truer-than-life three-dimensional sculpture. Dangled from an ear, tenderly curled around a wrist or neck, or perched on a finger as if set to take flight, each one appears captured in movement: a beating wing, a fluttering heart all manifested in precious material. Intense eyes of sapphire, emerald or ruby; fur sculpted in gold or flecked with diamonds; shiny, polished bellies; delicate feathers… each piece tells a story.

Boucheron welcomes two new animals to this fabulous bestiary in 2023: the Panda and the Cicada.

Chopard – High Jewelry


To celebrate the occasion of its 150th anniversary, Chopard took on the challenge of signing a High Jewelry collection of 150 unique animal-themed pieces. True to its legendary creativity and boldness, the Maison mobilized all its talent for this birthday collection, drawing on its long experience to mix tradition, advanced techniques and documented research, and taking its taste for excellence and innovation to new heights. The result is an extraordinary collection of beautiful, mysterious and dream-like animals.

Supported by Chopard’s High Jewelry designers, Caroline Scheufele consulted encyclopedias and even the Chinese calendar to design a collection of animals that is original, esthetically pleasing and humorous. Species from every latitude are represented in the form of bracelets, necklaces, brooches, earrings and rings. Though the latest technology was used to create this dazzling collection, as always it was the unrivaled skill of Chopard’s craftsmen that gave the models form and beauty. In doing so, the deeply moving splendor of Nature and the creative genius of Man come together in a marvel of High Jewelry.

David Webb – Kingdom


The quintessential American designer, David Webb founded his business in New York in the 1940s. The Webb brand is famous for bright, bold jewelry creations, particularly whimsical animal jewelry featuring colorful gems and enamel.The first animal bracelet appeared in 1957, unleashing a near-obsession with whatever could fly, crawl, swim or run.

Bold designs have become a signature of David Webb jewelry; alongside his inclination for using a wide range of materials and techniques – such as bright enamel, textured gold, rock crystal, and an array of motifs from the ancient world. David Webb personally had a special affection for nature and living things so the use of nature motifs and images of animals in his designs are prevalent.

The first animal inspired bracelet from David Webb was designed in 1957 – the “Dragon” bracelet was bought by Elizabeth Taylor, and subsequently named the ‘Elizabeth Taylor Makara Bracelet’. David Webb followed this design with enamel animals, among them a Zebra bracelet designed in 1963, which can be found on the brand’s logo – in 18K gold and platinum, decorated with enamel, diamonds, and rubies.

Garrard – Wings Rising


Garrard presents Wings Rising, a fresh chapter in the Wings story that celebrates 20 years of this iconic collection. Ushering in a new era for Wings, Wings Rising is a major evolution for this signature motif, which made its debut in 2003. Conceived by Garrard’s all-female design team to speak confidently, woman to woman, Wings Rising take the Wings collection in an exciting new direction.

Designed for real women as forms of self-expression and independence, the Wings Rising collection is representative of the changing shift in culture that is galvanising women worldwide to purchase jewelry for themselves, to celebrate themselves. Sara Prentice, creative director, comments “Wings Rising honors the women who inspire our designs: strong, successful, independent women who live and fly by their own Wings.”

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WATCHES

Leica ZM 11

Every second is a first
By Mariam Yasin

Engineered by Leica partner Chronode, the Swiss movement developer, the automatic Leica Calibre LA-3001 stands out with the precision of -4/+6 seconds per day and an impressive 60 hours of run time. The ZM 11 is measured in five positions, guaranteeing accuracy at all times, and is adorned with 35 jewels. Encased in a 10 atm water-resistant titanium or stainless steel, 41 mm shell, this Calibre not only paves the way for future innovations in the ZM 11 Collection but also encapsulates the hallmark aesthetics of Leica design.

The watch face of the Leica ZM 11 is more than just a surface – it’s the canvas, where light and shadow create depth. The dual-layered dial of the Launch Edition transforms from a sleek black to vibrant red, depending on the viewer’s perspective. The first watch face of its kind to create the impression of a gradient that is accomplished through fine mechanical craftsmanship, instead of relying on printed visuals. The brushed indexes with polished edges have a luminous filling to ensure high-visibility in any lighting condition. The hands are diamond-cut, softly faceted, and feature a combination of deep brushed and sand-blasted surfaces that reflect beautifully as they catch the light.

The ZM 11 adds three unique timepieces to the Leica Watch Collection with the choice of three band options: The ZM 11 Titanium Launch Edition, limited to 250 watches, with a black and red dial; the ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black with a warm-black dial; and the ZM 11 Steel Midnight Blue with a blue and black dial.

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WATCHES

Future Forward

Leading the way to innovative watchmaking
By Mariam Yasin

In the realm of watchmaking, a rich tapestry of tradition and innovation unfolds as artisans and engineers tirelessly work to push the boundaries of what’s possible. The world of horology has always been a harmonious blend of history and technology, but in recent years, a remarkable wave of innovation has swept through the industry, promising to redefine the future of timekeeping. From groundbreaking materials to cutting-edge complications, these innovations are not just pushing the boundaries but shattering them, setting the stage for a future where precision, beauty, and technology converge like never before.

MB&F HM Bulldog


A rounded, compact body of titanium, red gold or microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating coupled with a generous ration of sapphire crystal. Two prominent aluminium time-display “eyes”, rolling at anyone who dares look its way. A collar studded with projections that allow you to wind the mainspring or set the time. Stout but flexible “legs” that wrap firmly around your wrist. A massive jaw. And above all, a big heart beating steadily at 2.5Hz (18,000bph).

The manual-winding engine of HM10 Bulldog was designed and developed in-house, leveraging the best of MB&F’s technical expertise built up over the years; longtime members of the MB&F Tribe will recognise elements that hew closely to the horological lab’s best-loved creations. The large suspended balance that hovers just beneath the central dome of sapphire crystal was made possible by the various iterations of this mechanism in the Legacy Machine collection.

Despite its outsize personality — measuring 45mm across, 54mm from nose to tail and with a maximum height of 24mm — HM10 Bulldog is surprisingly wearable. Its sprung strap attachment “legs” allow the body to fit closely around the wrist, with the calf-leather strap as robust as any well-made leash — fastened with either a folding buckle or Velcro system. HM10 Bulldog is assembled with highly distilled expertise in micro-mechanical engineering. Fitting the requisite elements of timekeeping and time display within such a limited three-dimensional volume, while maintaining top levels of artistry and finish, requires careful balance between technical and aesthetic factors.

MB&F Horological Machine N°10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in five versions:

  • Ti version: grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes
  • RT version: 18K red gold and titanium case with black hour and minute domes
  • ‘Dark Bulldog’ versions: case in microblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating with black, blue or red hour and minute domes. Limited editions of 8 pieces each.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier


As an innovator who ignites new pathways of expression and craftsmanship, Roger Dubuis has unleashed the full potential of colourful luminescence with the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-StoneTM Monobalancier- limited to only 28 pieces. The Blacklight collection has already cemented an iconic reputation for its mastery of radiant aesthetics and excelled performance. Powered by the RD720SQ calibre, and glowing with artistic originality, this is a watch that demands attention.

Setting this watch apart with true innovation are the powerfully visible spinels that encircle the bezel and flange and take the name of Spin-StonesTM. This world premiere stone-cut is patent pending, and yet again demonstrates the Maison’s ability to exploit aesthetic design in its most spectacular form.

Balancing aesthetics and performance, the automatic RD720SQ calibre has an increased power reserve of 72 hours and an optimized micro-rotor to minimize the vibrations. To further improve stability, the balance wheel inertia has been doubled – making the watch less sensitive to shocks. In a quest for greater efficiency and energy transmission, even the shape of the escapement has been enhanced, paired with diamond-coated silicon pallet-stones and a new lube. This display of Roger Dubuis’ obsessive engineering is brought together with hand-finished quality and meticulous care – all resulting in the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures of fine watchmaking.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic – Neon Yellow Saxem


The yellow is a powerful, bright neon colour which almost seems to glow from the inside, like a fluorescent material. An intense fluorescent shade of acid yellow, citrus-like in its quality. To meet this highly technical challenge, Hublot had to search for a solution in space technology. In fact, SAXEM was developed in the field of satellite technology. A unique material that had also been used in 2019 for the Big Bang MP-11.

What is SAXEM? It stands for “Sapphire Aluminium oXide and rare Earth Mineral”. It is an alloy of aluminium oxide, the basic component of sapphire, with rare earth elements like thulium and holmium as well as chromium. The resulting material is ultra-resistant and endowed with a brilliance that is greater than that of sapphire.

In terms of movement, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is powered by the HUB6035 self-winding Manufacture calibre. Hublot has chosen the most difficult technical route, self- winding using a micro-rotor, the only way to avoid concealing the back of the movement as a conventional rotor would have done. On top of that, the Manufacture has chosen to skeletonise the entire calibre. This heart is the tourbillon, which appears to be suspended in mid-air. Positioned at 6 o’clock, it offers the technical and hypnotic spectacle of a high-precision Haute Horlogerie piece, designed as a 21st century interpretation: modern, disruptive, dazzling.

The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is limited to 50 pieces.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept


Piaget is keeping the flame of ultra-thin watchmaking very much alive. More than just a speciality, it is a state of mind, a culture, an identity that began with watch movements and has spread to all of Piaget’s designs over almost 150 years. For Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023, the Maison, which laid the aesthetic and technical foundations for ultra-thin watches, launched new version of a mechanical watch that is an astonishing 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept.

An exceptional feat, even at 2 mm thick, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept is waterproof to a depth of 20 metres and equipped with a traditional crown. Its first working prototype took seven years to develop; two more were required for it to meet Piaget’s rigorous reliability standards. Its case is made from a special torsion-resistant cobalt alloy, which makes it 25% thinner than precious metal cases.

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WATCHES

The Secondary Market

Alternative Platforms for Purchasing Watches
By Kunal P. Khemka

A few weeks ago, I was chatting with a friend on WhatsApp. We were catching up after ages. Originally from India, he now calls Dubai his home. He knows I love watches and writing about them. He goes ‘I just bought a watch.’ He knew I would ask ‘which one’ and ‘please share a pic’ and was waiting for me to say it. We go back a long way, having attended boarding school in Singapore during the mid-nineties. Aspects of our behavior are predictable to each other. What followed was a picture of a beautiful Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in Rose Gold. I was impressed, and not surprised, as my friend is a hugely successful technology entrepreneur, having founded a handful of technology ventures straddling India and the US, and then selling them for millions of dollars.

He shared how the boutique insisted he must build a relationship by buying another model or two, engage with them on their social media, and simply wait indefinitely. Aspects that are typical of luxury and haute-horology watch brands, and those that collectors take for granted. Frustrated, he went ahead and bought his desired watch on a well-known preowned platform. This made me realize that – like my friend – there is an entire world of potential watch customers. Not all as successful and wealthy as him – but those who have little idea about watches and how the world of luxury watch-retail works.

Luxury products are as much about the ‘community’ they create as they are about ‘physical products’ themselves. I have experienced this myself as a boutique customer of a Holy Trinity watch brand. The themed events, cocktails and dinners, opportunity to socialize, the thoughtful gifts (often part of the theme of the event), all serve to create an ecosystem of networking, lifelong friendships, and a closer relationship with these brands. This community aspect keeps the halo and prestige of these brands alive. The creation of such a community cements stronger bonds between brands and collectors. Those passionate about luxury products are more likely to seek such a community. Often, the community experience is as or more important than the products themselves. For passionate collectors, the physical product is a means to membership in a community or exclusive club which offers an enriching experience. In the case of watches, being a brand’s boutique customer or through an authorized dealer (AD), enables the collector to get priority access to new models and limited editions, often before they are revealed to a wider public.

For many, the boutique or AD experience, and the community they provide is not so important. Certainly not for my friend. He is not a watch-guy or WIS (Watch Idiot Savant). And there are many others like him. People who want to buy a watch, who can afford them, are not so passionate about horology and uninterested in being part of such a community. My friend certainly views watches as status symbols but was not interested in making the effort required to become a boutique or AD customer. His experience at the boutique left me thinking. If any brand or AD knows him and his accomplishments the way I do, they would let him have any watch he wants, even the ones one must qualify and wait years for. This is just my (blind) bias towards my friend. But the way the industry works, his accomplishments mean little in the ‘ladder’ one must ‘climb’ to qualify to purchase certain pieces. Not everyone is as accomplished as my friend, yet there are many who have the means and can afford them.

What does all this mean?

  • For the likes of my friend or the Non-WIS Watch-Collectors.
  • For Brands and Authorized Dealers.

A)
My friend values time and money. He was not able to purchase his desired watch from a boutique, so he found another way. He is happy with his ownership of it. He enjoys wearing it. In his social circle, it represents a well-earned status symbol. The ‘product’ is the same; the only thing missing is the ‘community’ experience. To illustrate my point, let us use an example from the world of supercars. A gentleman who loves Ferrari purchases his desired model preowned, as he is not interested in the lengthy waitlist of a Ferrari authorized dealer. While driving on the Italian Countryside or German Autobahns, it is still a Ferrari. Depending on the model, it is still a V-8 or V-12 rumbling away behind his ears or in front of him, put together by the magicians at Maranello. What is missing is that this gentleman – though loving the ‘product experience,’ exactly as Enzo Ferrari intended – will not get to enjoy the ‘brand and dealer experience,’ such as invites to dealers where they network with other customers and enjoy champagne and hors d’oeuvre, while models remove the covers of the new launch, or the opportunity to meet the Ferrari F-1 Team at HQ in Maranello. It is the same for my friend. He gets to enjoy everything there is about his new watch. He just does not get to enjoy the brand or AD experience, and the benefits that come with it.

B)
For Brands and AD’s, they obtain customers indirectly. These are customers who carry the heritage, prestige, other aspects of their respective brands, without having a direct relationship with them. Brands and AD’s must realize that while these customers did not purchase the ‘official’ way, they nevertheless are on their wrists now and in official possession of the watches. The brands and AD’s have an obligation to authenticate (if the brand provides this service, as it varies) and service these watches when required. While brands and AD’s may turn a blind eye, they do know that some of their official customers flip their watches on the secondary market. As much as they try to control and prevent this, it seldom happens as intended. For the brands and AD’s, customers such as my friend are a blessing, because they inadvertently function as their brand ambassadors and marketeers, at minimal effort and cost for them. I am sure most of my friend’s social circle are not passionate collectors, but they will display curiosity when they see his watch. A small percentage of them might get hooked on horology. Brands and ADs must not ignore such customers and must find a way to engage with them.

A prolific collector friend of mine from India – Farhad – had this to say about such collectors: ‘We have to understand that as enthusiasts and collectors we actually represent a very very tiny percentage of global sales. Most buyers are one and done. And they are least bothered about pricing and value retention. They’ll wear the watch for the next 10-15 years.’ This perfectly sums up the Non-WIS Watch Collectors.

Well-known Preowned Platforms (A Collected Man, Chrono24, WatchBox, and Wristcheck) Auction Houses (Phillips and its venture Phillips Perpetual) and Publications (Hodinkee and Revolution) are legitimate alternatives for purchasing watches. They are much more than a ‘used-car showroom.’

From having a presence of global boutiques and hosting events, churning out excellent and expert editorial and social-media content, to being authorized dealers of certain brands, to having ownership in brands, and frequently having collaborations with brands (whether mainstream, independents, or microbrands) for limited edition watches, these platforms have become horological powerhouses on their own. Several of my collector friends have begun purchasing from them. They also cater to the needs and demands of Millennials and Gen Z, many of whom (perhaps) care less about purchasing ‘officially’ from the brands and AD.

While the experience of being a boutique or AD customer has its charm, the industry cannot ignore the likes of my friend and these alternative platforms. Their growing importance must not be underestimated. Purchasing from them is often as enriching an experience as buying from a brands boutique or AD, and one is welcomed into their world and community. And the customer benefits from the same peace of mind that comes from a brand’s boutique and AD. It is a win-win for the industry, for both the brands and the customers. Such platforms have made watches more accessible to a wider and more global audience and have truly democratized the industry.

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WATCHES

Van Cleef & Arpels

Precious Jewels Telling Time
By Mariam Yasin

Van Cleef & Arpels unveils a new patrimonial exhibition at its iconic Middle East boutique Les Salons Dubai Opera, on display from September 15 to November 22, 2023. “Van Cleef & Arpels, Precious Jewels Telling Time” features a selection of creations and archival documents ranging from the Art Deco period up until the 1970s. This selection presents how Van Cleef & Arpels created throughout the decades, jewels that tell time following a seamless identity and coherent style.

An early example of the Maison’s watchmaking tradition is the Skeleton pocket watch dating from around 1925 is on display as well as a Cadenas watch from 1944. First launched in 1935, this model embodies the marriage of elegance and functionality so dear to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Paying tribute to one of the Maison’s most important sources of inspiration – couture –, the Cord secret watch from 1949 attests to the importance of “Cord” motif in the 1940s, as testified by earrings and necklaces also showcased in the exhibition. In addition, table clocks in ornamental stones dating from the 1960s and the Bark pendant watch from the 1970s are showcased for the first time along jewelry and High Jewelry pieces.

The 27 watches, table clocks and precious objects highlight the Maison’s distinctive approach to give the time, in anticipation of “A journey through the Poetry of Time”, taking place during Dubai Watch Week 2023 (November 16 to 20).

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WATCHES

One Million Dollars and Beyond

Unparalleled timepieces
By Mariam Yasin

In the world of horology, where precision meets craftsmanship, there exists a realm reserved for the truly exceptional. Beyond the ordinary, beyond the attainable, lie timepieces that defy convention and redefine luxury. In this feature, we highlight exclusive watches that retail for over USD 1 million. These horological masterpieces are not merely instruments to measure time; they are expressions of artistry, innovation, and heritage, each bearing a price tag that mirrors their unparalleled rarity and beauty.

Bulgari Giardino Marino Grande – USD 2,979,000


Inspired by Bulgari’s Mediterranean roots, the Giardino Marino Grande High Jewellery Secret Watch in 18 kt rose and white gold is an ode to the vibrant marine life and the rich nature of Southern Italy. Full of dynamism and movement, the flexible timepiece is made of gold starfish, anemones, corals and shells set with diamonds, emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, Paraiba, green and pink tourmalines, tanzanites, mandarin garnets, rubellites, peridots and rock crystals. Powered by the in-house micro-calibre Piccolissimo, one of the smallest mechanical movements to date, the watch hides a precious treasure: two detachable elements that can be worn as earrings. With over a year and a half in development and 3,850 hours of skilled work, this stunning creation displaying Bulgari’s unparalleled jewellery mastery is truly one-of-a-kind.
Giardino Marino Grande High Jewellery Secret Watch with Piccolissimo mechanical manufacture micro-movement, manual winding (2.5 mm thick), 30-hour power reserve and 21’600 Vph (3Hz) frequency, 18 kt rose and white gold case and bracelet set with diamonds, emeralds, blue and pink sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, tanzanites, green and pink tourmalines, mandarin garnets, rubellites, peridots and rock crystals, and snow-set diamond dial. Detachable elements to be worn as earrings.

Piaget Limelight Aura High Jewelry – USD 1,630,000


Taking center stage in the stunning diamond high jewelry category, the Limelight Aura High Jewelry watch features a case in rhodium finish 18K white gold set with 26 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 8.8 ct) and 14 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 0.8 ct). The exquisite dial is set with 52 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 4.8 cts) and the bracelet in rhodium finish 18K white gold set with 210 emerald-cut diamonds (approx. 44.6 cts). The Limelight Aura High Jewelry watch features Manufacture 430P ultra-thin hand-wound mechanical movement.

Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Black Spinel and Rose Gold – Over USD 1,000,000


Mystery watches, timepieces where the time indications seem to be floating over the dial, are part of the grand history of watchmaking, going back more than 100 years. It should come as no surprise high watchmaking and diamond jewelry house Jacob & Co. has brought the mystery back with a contemporary high watchmaking and high jewelry twist.

The Mystery Tourbillon combines high watchmaking, a world first with two linked central, back-to-back triple axis tourbillons, with high jewelry, as the case is invisibly set with baguette hexagonal black spinel and the dial is set with hexagonal, “overlapping” black spinel. The sophisticated and ground-breaking Mystery was more than one year in development.

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WATCHES

Time to be Sustainable

3 Watch Brands Consciously Leading the Way
By Mariam Yasin

In an era where sustainability is not merely a buzzword but an imperative for conscious consumers, the world of luxury watches is taking a remarkable stride towards a greener and more responsible future. Their commitment to ethical sourcing, coupled with innovative initiatives such as the use of lab-grown diamonds, recycled gold, and transparent supply chains, exemplifies their dedication to both preserving the planet’s resources and elevating the standards of luxury craftsmanship. In this journey towards horological excellence, these brands are not just telling time; they are also telling a story of environmental stewardship and responsibility.

Breitling Navitimer 36 & 32


The 36-mm Navitimer features the beaded bezel and iconic circular slide rule (used by pilots as an analog calculator) that give the Navitimer its unmistakable appearance. But here it comes in a trio of chic metallic dial colors (mint green, silver, and anthracite) with baton indexes, or with a white mother-of-pearl dial set with round-cut “better diamonds”.

Part of Breitling’s mission to do better, these diamonds are lab-grown and traceable to accredited producers who have achieved the SCS-007 Sustainability Rated Diamonds Standard. Similarly, the full-gold version and gold bezel on the duo-tone are crafted in “better gold”, traceable to artisanal and small-scale mines that meet the Swiss Better Gold Association’s criteria for social and environmental impact.

All watches in the line that feature better gold, better diamonds, or both, carry the Origins label, a marker of their precious materials’ product integrity. The Navitimer 36 is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17, providing three-hand time and automatic winding.


This dazzling new interpretation of the classic aviation watch forgoes the slide rule in favor of a simplified dial design suited to its slim diameter. Where this small watch packs a big punch is in its mother-of-pearl dials in powdery pink and light-blue—a first for Breitling—along with classic white. As with the larger 36, the 32 features better diamonds across the line as well as better gold on the full-gold version and on the bezel of the duo-tone. They all carry the Origins label.

The power behind this watch comes from the Breitling Caliber 77, a supremely precise SuperQuartzTM movement that, as with all of Breitling’s quartz calibers, has the added distinction of being COSC-certified. It also features a 50-meter (5-bar) water resistance, impressive for a watch this size.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin


The Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin, the result of the partnership between Hublot and Nespresso, shares the values of innovation, excellence and sustainability, which are at the core of both brands. This is a world first: Hublot’s and Nespresso’s pioneering spirit has transformed used coffee grounds from the capsules into watch straps. The recycled aluminium fused with the aluminium capsules become the case, the bezel, the crown and the pusher.

This is an unprecedented collaboration, signaled by Nespresso’s iconic “N” engraved on the crown, and its iconic colour – a nod to the Master Origins Peru Organic capsule. The density of the two materials is expertly blended to ensure the durability of the product. The Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin’s 42-mm case is crafted in recycled aluminium, of which 28% comes from Nespresso coffee capsules, anodised in vibrant green, then satin finished and polished.

For the fabric strap, Hublot has collaborated with SingTex, one of Nespresso’s partners who was already using recycled coffee grounds to produce a fabric called Scafé. This 100% recycled fabric (composed of 5% coffee grounds and 95% recycled polyester) is being used for the first time to make a watch strap. A subtle balance, to ensure the durability of the bracelet, which also sees the rubber strap fusing 4.1% coffee grounds, 8.2% recycled white rubber and the usual Hublot formula.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS


With Alpine Eagle, Chopard has created a contemporary sporty-chic collection featuring a pure design paired with a sophisticated mechanism. Following a flyback chronograph movement, a high-frequency calibre and a flying tourbillon, Alpine Eagle is extending its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. Measuring just 3.30 mm thick, the L.U.C 96.40-L movement is just one of the feats achieved by the watchmaking artisans of Chopard Manufacture. Its advanced features enable the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy, while guaranteeing 65 hours of power reserve thanks to Chopard Twin technology. The Alpine Eagle 41 XPS with its 41 mm-diameter case and integrated bracelet is entirely crafted in the Maison’s workshops from Lucent Steel™: an exclusive, ultra-resistant and remarkably shiny alloy made from 80% recycled materials. Its optimal proportions and textured “Monte Rosa Pink” dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and distinction; while its finishes, reflecting the highest Haute Horlogerie standards, have earned it recognition by the coveted Poinçon de Genève.

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JEWELRY

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Jewelry Collections to Keep on Your Radar
By Mariam Yasin

This season, the world of designer jewelry unveils a mesmerizing array of trends that are set to captivate and redefine elegance. From innovative designs that seamlessly blend tradition with contemporary aesthetics to breathtaking gemstones that evoke pure enchantment, these trending jewelry collections are nothing short of works of art. Let’s explore the must-haves that will undoubtedly become the talk of the town and a coveted addition to any jewelry aficionado’s collection.

Louis Vuitton Silhouette Blossom

The new Louis Vuitton Blossom creations interpret the outline of the Maison’s Monogram star-shaped Flower, its openwork design bringing a daring but organic look to the collection – with bold new volumes and sizes for the ultimate in versatility and self-expression. Like Idylle Blossom and Color Blossom, these novelties are precious, yet everyday must-have pieces, set with diamonds or full pave diamonds. Eleven pieces celebrate the new line, which comes in either pink or white gold, and range from delicate and stackable rings and pendants to an audacious and edgy overlap hoop and oversized, diamond-studded earrings.

Worn as a single piece or stacked and layered together for extra impact, the rings embody the Louis Vuitton Blossom collection’s versatile spirit, inviting different sizes, textures, heights and volumes to be mixed and matched to express one’s personal style and creativity. Oversized XL hoops bring bold volumes, the open flower design accentuated in a subtle line of diamonds and framing the face in a statement-making jewel. Smaller mini hoops are more understated, chicly resting on the earlobe, a diamond stud adding a touch of refinement, the Flower’s silhouette form unmistakable and distinct.

Boucheron Plume de Paon

One of the Maison’s historical motifs, the Plume de Paon, appeared at Boucheron for the first time in the 1860s on hair jewelry and brooches. A symbol of lightness, it constitutes a true challenge for the jeweler, who seeks to loyally render the movement, curves, volume and finesse of a natural peacock feather. More than a century-and-a-half later, the Creative Studio continues to reinvent the Plume de Paon. The Maison pays tribute to its airy grace through ten new designs that nestle against the skin, in the hair, or along the ear, as if to murmur the Boucheron workshops’ secrets of savoir-faire.

For the first time, the collection presents a gradation of colors that mirror those of a real peacock feather. These hues do not exclusively emanate from the diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites and tanzanites that are set into it. An anodization treatment is applied to the titanium to create the precious gradation of bluish greens that evanesces at the extremities. Anodization is a surface oxidation process that both protects and tints titanium.

Marli Life

A veritable celebration of life, love and creation is encapsulated in LIFE, the fine jewelry collection from MARLI New York. The latest creations, comprised of four exquisite 18K gold pieces, amplify the dualities that exist within LIFE itself, while their kinetic qualities invite playful interaction from the wearer.

A row of MARLI New York’s signature pyramid-shaped gemstones—representing LIFE’s major elements—appears as a ring and hinge bracelet, available in 18K rose gold and white gold. From the harmony of green agate to the playfulness of pink opal, the gemstone pieces cultivate contrasts with twin rows of shimmering pavé and paved inner bands. Because diamonds embody purity and wholeness, a ring and hinge bracelet with diamonds only are available in 18K rose gold, white gold and yellow gold.

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra

Intense reflections of guilloché rose gold combine with dazzling nuances of carnelian to give rise to four new Alhambra creations, aglow with tender harmonies. These new pieces include a reversible ring that enchants the gaze with these materials, according to the wearer’s fancy. This new design, offered for the first time within the collection, reflects the tradition of versatility that is unique to the Maison and its distinctive emblem.

An iconic aesthetic of Van Cleef & Arpels since 1968, the Alhambra motif draws inspiration from the four-leaf clover, celebrating luck through constantly reinvented jewelry and watchmaking creations.

Pomellato Nudo

Nudo continues to stand out as Pomellato’s signature design with its defining trait of colour. Since it first appeared, this trailblazing solitaire ring stood out for its distinctive square silhouette and an asymmetrical facetted cut offering a solid block of colour. In the same pioneering spirit, the Nudo was also one of the first rings expressly designed to be stacked, making colourful personalisation easy and spontaneous.

Nudo-mania continues and sees three brand new stone doublet combinations. Green, purple and blue are the most popular gemstone colours in the Nudo range and the new doublets offer variations in these tones to complete the perfect ring stack or to be worn on their own. The green hues of prasiolite come to life when placed over a slice of malachite and enlivened with a pavé of zesty green tsavorites. Majestic purple amethyst sits on top of mauve jade and paired with an amethyst pavé. The moody tones of London Blue topaz are enhanced when placed above a layer of midnight blue lapis lazuli and set off with the sparkle of a pavé of blue sapphires. The rings are available in Petit and Classic sizes and the earrings in the Classic size.

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